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Thursday, April 30, 2015

HOJUELA WITH THE MEDIEVAL SPANISH CHEF'S RECIPE FOR DRUNKEN CREPES

Drunken Crepe Batter Ready for Frying
Photo by Lord-Williams
1. crepes. They could be served with sugar or with various sauces or filings as today. 2. skin left over from crushed olives. [Anón/Grewe. 1982:CLXI:175-176; Delgado. 1994:125; Enci mujer. 1969.3025:779:3168:809; ES: RAE. 2001, Nola. 1989:xlv-1]
              
A RECIPE FOR DRUNKEN CREPES FROM THE MEDIEVAL SPANISH CHEF’S ARCHIVES[1]
For 6-12 crepes depending on size

Ingredients

1 lb wheat flour
6 eggs
1 c brandy
2 c milk
salt to taste
olive oil for frying
1 c honey


Perfect for Starting or Finishing the Day
Photo by: Lord-Williams
Preparation

Put the flour in a bowl. Make a hole in the middle and break the eggs into this. Add the brandy, salt to taste and milk. When well mixed, cover and let sit ½ hr.

Heat a frying pan (preferably non-stick) and add just enough oil to lightly cover the surface. When very hot add one ladle of batter. Tip the pan for it to spread the batter into a thin crepe. When golden brown on onside turn it to brown the other side. When done, remove and place on paper towels to absorb the excess oil.

Repeat this until all the batter is fried. Place the crepes on a platter. Drizzle with honey and serve warm.



ANÓN AL-ANDALUS 
#406 HECHURA DE ENGRASADA QUE ES EN HOJALDRE, p 224
AMBROSIO HUICI'S TRANSLATION
Se toma sémola pura o harina de trigo y se hace un amasado apropiado sin levadura y se rocía poco a poco y no se cesa de amasarlo hasta que se deshaga y tome su pinto y se ablande por donde se extiende un pedazo de él sin cortarse; entonces se pone un freidor Nuevo a un fuego moderado y cuando se ha calentado tomarás un pedazo de esa pasa y lo extiendes sobre mármol o sobre plancha en lamina Delgado y lo embadurnas con grasa fundida o con mantequilla deshecha en agua; luego enróllalo como una tela[1], hasta que se haga como una caña; luego entretéjelo y bátelo con tu puño hasta que se haga un pan delgado y redondo, y si quieres, dóblalo también; entonces lo extiendes y lo bates con tu puño por segunda vez hasta que se haga redondo y delgado; entonces lo pones en el freidor hasta que se ligue, luego lo sacas y haces lo demás hasta que termines la cantidad que necesites; luego lo bates entre tus manos y lo echas en mantequilla y miel; se hierve, y cuando se ha enfriado, espolvoréalo con azúcar molido y lo presentas.


PERRY'S TRANSLATION INTO ENGLISH OF
ANON, AL-ANDALUS #406
PREPARATION OF MUSAMMANA [BUTTERED] WHICH IS MUWARRAQA [LEAFY]
Take pure semolina or wheat flour and knead a stiff dough without yeast. Moisten it little by little and don't stop kneading it [p. 63, verso] until it relaxes and is ready and is softened so that you can stretch a piece without severing it. Then put it in a new frying pan on a moderate fire. When the pan has heated, take a piece of the dough and roll it out thin on marble or a board. Smear it with melted clarified butter or fresh butter liquified over water. Then roll it up like a cloth until it becomes like a reed. Then twist it and beat it with your palm until it becomes like a round thin bread, and if you want, fold it over also. Then roll it out and beat it with your palm a second time until it becomes round and thin. Then put it in a heated frying pan after you have greased the frying pan with clarified butter, and whenever the clarified butter dries out, moisten [with butter] little by little, and turn it around until it binds, and then take it away and make more until you finish the amount you need. Then pound them between your palms[1] and toss on butter and boiling honey. When it has cooled, dust it with ground sugar and serve it.







[1] For Sent Soví’s crepe recipe #CLXI, pp 175-176, see blog titled cofina, published April 17, 2013 and for Nola’s pancake recipe xlv-1, see blog titled Carnestolendas published August 31, 2012.

Monday, April 27, 2015

HOZ WITH RECIPE FOR STUFFED PASTRIES

Hoz neolítica
Photo from: Vicente Camarasa
guadaña, Leon gacha, gadañao, Astorga gadañ(o), Eng. 1. sickle. 2. curved knife used in threshing cereal crops and cutting grass for hay and for scraping dead pigs after they are slaughtered and scorched. In the 10th C, these were sold by boys in the market of León. See gacha. [Ares. Gastronomía. 2000:73; Dialecto. 1947:242; García Rey. 1943:93; Ruíz/Brey. 1965:1290a:200; and Sánchez-Albornoz. 2000:47]

STUFFED  CAKES ADAPTED FROM HUICI'S TRANSLATION OF ANÓN AL-ANDALUS #141. HECHURA DE ESPONJA, pp 95-96


Ingredients

Batter:
A Flat Cake Bubbling with a Honey and Nut Filling
Photo by: Lord-Williams
2 c semolina flour

¾ c water
2 tbsp oil
1 tbsp yeast
5 eggs

Filling:
⅛ c almonds
⅛ c walnuts
⅛ c pine nuts
⅛ c pistachios
⅔ c honey
⅓ c rosewater

Preparation

Sift the semolina and put it in a bowl. Sprinkle it with water. Knead it and cover it with a dish to let sit for ½ hour.

Knead until soft. Add oil, yeast, eggs and milk. Mix well.


Filling:

Separately grind nuts until fine like flour. Put honey in a pot and bring to a boil. Add nuts and stir to make a paste. Add rosewater and set aside.


Pour just enough batter into a frying pan to make a small cake. Spoon enough nut mixture over this Cover  and seal the edges or make a ball with the stuffing in the middle.  Repeat until all the dough and filling are used up.



ANÓN AL ANDALUS #141 HECHURA DE ESPONJA[1], pp 95-96
AMBROSIO HUICI’S TRANSLATION

      Tomas samīd y lo tamizas y tomas en harina y lo pones en una fuente, tomas agua y rocías con ella el samīd muy ligeramente; luego lo pones en tu mano, lo apelotonas y lo tapas en una segunda fuente, dejándolo hasta que s crispe; luego lo descubres y lo rallas hasta que se haga como harina blanca, fríes con él aceite, lo amasas y le pones levadura y huevo, le echas a todo una medida de cinco huevos y entonces amasas la pasta con los huevos; luego lo pones en una olla nueva, después de engrasarla on aceite y lo dejas hasta que se haga como sal; luego coges miel pura y la pones al fuego hasta que se calcule que se la ligado; luego tomas almendras, nueces, pistacho y piñones, que habrás majado y lo echas todo sobre la miel y lo revuelves hasta que esté igual; luego tomas la pasta que has puesto en la olla del pan blanco y haces con ella un raguīf, delgado, pequeño y pones sobre él parte de esta pasta ligada en miel con pistachos y demás; luego coges el pan delgado con tu mano y lo revuelves hasta que esté igual y redondo, como un bocado, y haces toda la pasta, según esta receta, hasta que se acabe el relleno y no esté la pasta delgada, sino mediamente y tomas la freidora y pones en ella aceite y cuando empieza a hervir, le echas el pedazo de la esponja y lo fríes con fuego ligero hasta que esté a punto. [P. 75] Y si quieres ligarlo con azúcar molido y agua de rosa, échalo y te resultará aromatizada, agradable.

[1] En árabe isfunŷ que Pedro de Alcalá traduce por buñuelo.



PERRY’S TRANSLATION INTO ENGLISH OF
ANON AL-ANDALUS MAKING STUFFED ISFUNJ

Take semolina and sift it, and take the flour and put it in a dish. Take water and sprinkle it lightly on the semolina. Then put your hand in it and gather it all up and cover it with a second dish, leaving it until it sweats. Then uncover it and mix it until it becomes like white flour [that is, the durum ground wheat should resemble soft wheat flour]. Throw oil in it, and mix it, and put in leavening and eggs, throw in a measure of five eggs and then mix the dough with the eggs. Then put it in a new pot, after greasing it with oil, and leave it until it rises. Then take almonds, walnuts, pine nuts and pistachios, all peeled, and pound in a mortar until as fine as salt. Then take pure honey and put it on the fire and boil it until it is on the point of thickening. Then take the almonds, walnuts, pistachios and pine-nuts that you have pounded, and throw all this upon the honey and stir it until it is thickened. Then take the semolina dough that was put in the pot, and make a thin, small flat cake (raghîf) of it, and put on it a morsel of this thickened paste. Then take the raghîf with your hand and turn it until it is smooth and round and bite-sized. [This sentence is in Huici-Miranda's Spanish translation but not in the published Arabic text] Make all the dough according to this recipe, until the filling is used up. The dough should be only moderately thin. Then take a frying pan and put oil in it, and when it starts to boil, throw in a piece of isfunj and fry it with a gentle fire until it is done. And if you wish to thicken with sugar, do so, and if you with to throw almonds, ground sugar, and rosewater into the filling, do so and it will come out aromatic and agreeable.