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Monday, August 22, 2016

MORCIELLAS DE MIEL (LEON), WITH AN EASY RECIPE FOR HONEY BLOOD SAUSAGE

Removing Skin from Blood Sausage
Photo by: Lord-Williams

Cast morcillas de miel, Eng honey blood sausage (consisting of blood, salt pork, suet and honey). In the Middle Ages blood sausage could be a dessert-like, meatless concoction of almonds, pine kernels, cloves, cinnamon, egg yolks and sugared scented water, bound together with pork grease. See morcilla. [Ares. “Comidas.” 1994:92]

HONEY BLOOD SAUSAGE, THE MEDIEVAL MANUEL QUITIAN'S  CONCOCTION

Ingredients

2 tbsp almonds
1 tbsp olive oil, plus oil for frying bread
2 blood sausages (optional)
1 tbsp pine kernels
½ tsp cloves
½ tsp cinnamon
2 egg yolks
3 tbsps honey
1 tbsp suet
8 thin slices of bread

Preparation

Simply Delicious Any Time of Year!
Photo by: Lord-Williams
Boil almonds in water. Remove from heat and peel. Chop coarsely and set aside.

Heat olive oil in a frying pan. Remove sausage meat from casing and sautée. Add spices and nuts.  When toasted mix with egg yolks and add honey. Taste for sweetness. Add more honey if desired. Add suet and mix well.

Store refrigerated until ready to eat.

Thinly slice small pieces of bread and toast them.

At the same time warm the blood sausage mixture in a frying pan or microwave. When warm spread on bread and serve warm as hors d'oervres or dessert.



MORCILLA WITH A "BLACK AND WHITE" SANDWICH WITH FRENCH BREAD

2002 - The Slaughter Man and Inés
Catching Blood from Pig's Artery
with Red Bucket for Blood Sausage
Photo by: Lord-Williams
OCast morcón (fr mondongo), morsilla, morzilla, muresillo, musçilaginosa, OCat murcies (a stuffing), Leon morciella, Ar. mirkás (merguez sausage made with meat from a lamb’s leg or shoulder and murri naqi’ instead of blood), Port. morcella, Eng. blood sausage or black pudding. Basically, it consists of blood (collected when the pig’s throat or aorta is slit), seasoned pork from the belly or the meat between the shoulder and the elbow, fat from the chin and caul. The Leonese add onion, while those from Burgos use rice. In León, it can consist of blood and cured lamb suet. Each region and household has its particular recipe.

Some priests, beside Pablo Santa María, 1350-1435 (a Jew who converted to Christianity), thought that Genesis IX: iii-iv, prohibited consumption of animals’ blood and they believed that it caused melancholy and illnesses. They even forbid Maragato cocido (boiled stew) as “heretical food” as it contains blood sausage.

Carvers, after slicing meat, let the blood run out to prevent offending any guests. Others, like Baltasar de Alcazar, author of “Cena jocose” (jocular dinner), sang his praises for this sausage. 

Immediately, upon killing the pig, a woman, holding a pail, jumps in front of the pig to catch the blood spurting out of the gash. After a bit, another woman replaces her with another bucket. The first one quickly stirs what is in her bucket with a stick. Then she goes back to the pig while the second woman stirs the blood in her pail. They alternate in that fashion until the pig stops bleeding and the blood has been stirred sufficiently to prevent coagulation. In Estremadura, salt is not added, but in León it is.

Black Blood Sausage and White Sausage
Ready to be topped and devoured
So yummy!!!
Photo by: Lord-Williams
Sheep’s blood does not coagulate. A pan is set under its chin while the slaughter man works on preparing other parts of the body after the kill. See morciellas and mondonga.
[Alonso Luengo. 1994:38; Anón/Grewe. 1982:IIII:65:f Anón/Grewe. 1982:IIII:65:ftn 3; Anón/Huici.1966:15-16; Ares. “Comidas.” 1994:108; Dialecto. 1947:270; Espasa. 1988:54:STA CUBICIA:190; Pers. Memories. Slaughter Mostoles 2000:2001:2003 and Chile 2002; Trapiello. 1994:139; Villena/Brown. 1984:173; and Villena/Navarro. 1879:66:271]

No recipe is needed for the simplicity of preparing sausage. Normally it is fried. In Valencia there are side walk stands surrounded by tables for customers ordering their specialty of “blanco y nergros,” i.e. one white sausage fried with one blood sausage served in a bread roll. Nothing can be more delicious!


Friday, August 19, 2016

MONTORO, ANTÓN DE - WITH A JEWISH RECIPE FOR BURIED TREASURE

Cordoba Spain,
the old Jewish district
Photo by murray muraskin-spain
(Cordova 1404 -1480? Seville?), He was nicknamed “Cordova’s Clothier” as he was a used-clothes dealer as well as a taylor until 1473 when a wave of anti-Semitic riots broke out. He fled to Seville and it is thought that he stayed there.

Montoro is most remembered his satirical poetry and Cancionero, which appeared in 1445. It contains loud, strong verse that is burlesque and jocose. It created uproars among his fellow poets for his political protests and discourse on festivals.

With time, he became respected as Spaniards came to appreciate the dramatic, scholarly fantasy in his works. He is thought to be a main contributor to the commencement of Spanish theater. He was never a member of the court but seemed to have good relations with nobility including the Duke of Medina Sedonia, Pedro de Aguilar, Pedro de Estúñga, Miguel Lucas de Iranzo, the Marques of Santillana and Juan de Mena among others.

Frying Meatballs
Photo by: Lord-Williams
After 1474, Alonso de Aguilar became his protector in Seville. Gitlitz, points out that Montoro was accused of not being a true convert for preparing Jewish dishes such as Pollo Judio (Jewish Chicken) and radishes. His wife was tried for being a heretic by the Inquisition in 1486 and burned at the stake.

Reports are confused as to whether he died in Seville or returned to Cordova. Various years of his death are given but it is thought that he died shortly after the will was written in 1477 at the age of 73 or 74 years in Seville. [Bleiberg. 1993:II:L:1129; ES: Jacobs. Jul 8, 04; Gitlitz:1999:119; and Montoro/Ciceri. 1991:11-39.]

DAFINA[1], A VERSION OF A JEWISH DISH WITH A BURIED TREASURE ADAPTED FROM HUICI’S TRANSLATION OF AL-ANDALUS #115 PLATO JUDÍO RELLENO OCTULTO, p 79

Placing meat over the omelette on the bottom
Photo by: Lord-Williams
1 lb ground beef
½ tsp fine spices[2]
2 tbsp rosewater
1 c oil

¼ onion juice
salt to taste
13 eggs
1 tbsp flour
½ tsp white pepper
1 tsp cinnamon

Garnish
70 gr/2 ½ oz pistachios with shells
20 gr/0.7 oz pine kernels
1 tbsp whole mint leaves


Sauce
1 tbsp cilantro juice
½ onion
½ tsp murri[3]

Preparation

Divide meat in half. Mix one part with fine spices, 1 tbsp rosewater, onion juice and salt to taste. 

Make small meatballs this this. Sautée in olive oil,


The second omelette hiding the meat
Photo by: Lord-Williams
 
Beat 3 egg with flour, ¼ tsp pepper, ½ tsp cinnamon, 1 tbsp rosewater and the rest of the eat. Sautée in oil until done and set aside.

Make an omelette with 5 eggs, salt to taste, ¼ tsp pepper, ½ tsp cinnamon. Heat oil in a frying and cook the omelette. When browned on one side flip it to brown the over side.

Rpeat this step to make another omelette.

Create the "hidden dish" in an oven proof dish by placing the ground beef over one omelette. Top that with meatballs. Cover that with the second omelette.

PREHEAT OVEN TO 350ºF/180ºC[4]

Reheat the dish. 

For the garnish, shell and grind pistachios. Lightly toast pine kernels. Sprinkle the pistachios over the second omelette and then the pine kernels. Decorate with mint buds.

If God is willing, serve it up. 


[1] According to Perry, dafina means “buried treasure” as the name of the recipe infers. Traditionally, this is an Hispano-Jewish dish prepared the night before the Sabbath and left to cook all night as Jewish housewives were not allowed to cook on the Sabbath.  During the Middle Ages the pots of dafina were carried to the local baker where batter for bread was take from private homes, where ovens were not available to be baked. A Jewish boy was hired to watch over the pots of dafina to insure that no Christian products were added to the pots. Sephardic equivalent of the Ashkenazi dish cholent. For another recipe of dafina see blog titled adafina published October 23, 2010. 
[2] Salsas finas, 
< font-family: "times"; font-size: 13.5pt;">see blog titled dárselo published November 29, 2013 for recipe. 
[3] See blog titled almorí published August 25, 2011.
[4] During the Middle Ages when ovens were not available in homes, coals were placed over the lids of the pots to heat the tops of dishes.

HUICI’S TRANSLATION OF AL-ANDALUS #115


Wednesday, August 17, 2016

MONTANERA - SERRANO HAM

355/365 - 21 December 2014 -Jamón Serrano
Photo from: Robert Grounds
1. oak forest. 2. pigs raised among holm and cork oaks. They walk various kilometers per day looking for and eating acorns. After walking for far the pigs’ hooves were black from the soil. Serrano ham is made from the hams of these pigs is called “pata negra” as the quality is superior to hams cured from other pigs. See pata negra, alcornoque and encina. [Penco. 1995:123:142; Ramos. 1990:32; and Serradilla. 1993:145]

The ham alone is a wonderful appetizer. A favorite dish in the summer and fall months is a slice mellon topped with a pieces of serrano ham. Its great as a first course in a meal or cubed melon topped with smaller pieces of ham as an appetizer are equally delicious. 

Slices of Serrano Ham
Photo by: Lord-Williams








Monday, August 15, 2016

MONDONGA, -O, WITH REFRIED MONDONGA OR BLOOD SAUSAGE


Tripe, guts and entails hanging over a pole
Photo by: Lord-Williams
mondongas, 1. tripe, guts, entails. Once extracted from the pig, they are hung over a pole in the slaughter area until needed for one dish or another. In León, they are hung in the kitchen. 2. Estr mondonga, morcilla mandonga, Leon mondondo morcillero blood sausage consisting of blood, tripe and/or pancreas, mashed garlic, onion, wine (paprika since the 17th C.) mint, oregano or marjoram, salt and pepper.

These are prepared the morning the pig is killed. Women catch the blood spouting from the neck of the pig in pails. After a short time, a second woman replaces the first with another pail. The first woman vigorously stirs the blood in her pail to prevent it from coagulating. Once done, she replaces the second woman. This dance continues until the pig stops spouting blood.

Then the blood sausages are prepared. They can be consumed at lunch if desired.
See cerdo and morcilla.


[Ares. “Comidas,” 1994:106:107:112; Cerdo. n/d:no page numbers; Montoro/Cantera. 1984:110:257; Serradilla. 1993:11:40:41 etc; and Trapiello. 1994:139]

REFRIED MONDONGA ADAPTED FROM SERRANDILLA’S RECIPE MONDONGA REFRITA, p 97 TO INCLUDE MEDIEVAL INGREDIENTS AND TO EXCLUDE MODERN INGREDIENTS

Ingredients

"Refrying" Mondongas
Photo by: Lord-Williams
1 medium onion
200 gr/7 oz mushrooms
olive oil frying and for bread
¼ c sherry
2 mondonga blood sausage[1]

salt to taste
slices of bread

Preparation

Wipe mushrooms clean and slice. Slice shallots and garlic. Remove casing from sausages and slice.

Heat olive oil. Add shallots, garlic and mushrooms. When fried, remove excess liquid and add sherry, blood sausage and salt to taste. Turn to ingredients continually to warm all sides.

Toast bread and spread a little oil on top. Place toast on individual plates or a serving platter. Spoon blood sausage mixture over toast and serve hot.


[1] If not available any blood sausage will do.

SERRANDILLA’S RECIPE MONDONGA REFRITA




Friday, August 12, 2016

MONCHETAS WITH THE MEDIEVAL SPANISH CHEF'S ADAPTION OF A CATALAN HARICOT BEAN RECIPE

Monchetas
Photo by: Lord-Williams
Cat mongetes, L. Phaseolus vulgus, Ar. lūbya, Eng. a local variety of white haricot beans. Those from Bages, a region in Catalonia, are particularly famous. In this province these beans normally are accompanied by butifarra. It is thought that mongetes or what came to be known as haircot beans in the 16th C were used in Spanish stews prior to the introduction of American broad beans and others. It has been debated whether “haricot” is derived a word in old French meaning stew or from Aztec ayacotl.  

In 12th C in al-Andalus, Ibn al-‘Awwam describes 17 bean varieties. In fact the Spanish word for broad been is derived from the Ar. al-lubiya, indicating that not all members of the Phaseolus family are from America. One of the several varieties described by the Hispano Muslim could be the haricot. The bean originated in Afganistan and the Himalayan foothills making it very likely that the Muslims brought it to Spain. Medieval Islamic recipes calling for them have been discovered.

It has been observed also that Europe was relatively poor in legumes prior to the discovery of America, while Hispanos were receptive to new Muslim products and foods. Taking into account the protein, iron, calcium and other contents of haricot beans over bread and lard, the medieval European stable, it has been surmised that the Hispano Muslim diet improved productivity, which in turn contributed to the Andalusian economy and the flowering of al-Andalus. See haba and judia careta.

[Benavides-Barajas. 1995:247; ES: Lunde. Mar 8, 05; Fernández González. 1994:191; Rodison. “Studies.” 2001:138:145; and Val. Dec 5, 04]

THE MEDIEVAL SPANISH CHEF’S ADAPTION OF A CATALAN HARICOT BEAN RECIPE

Ingredients

A Hardy Meal
Photo by: Lord-Williams
9 oz haricot white beans
1 tsp soda
1 whole carrot
1 tsp murri[1]
salt to taste
1 tbsp olive oil
3 ½ oz solid lard
14 oz butifarra[2] and/or longaniza sausage

Garnish
allioli[3]

Preparation

Wash beans. Put them in a large bowl sprinkle soda over beans and cover with water. Let soak overnight or at least 6 hours.

The following day, rinse beans and put them in a pot or pressure cooker with the carrot and murri. Cover with water.

Bring to a boil and reduce heat to gently boil for any where from ½ hr – 3 hrs depending if using a pressure cooker or pot and the quality of the beans.

After about hour, remove carrot from pot. Slice and set aside.

At the end of cooking time for the beans, add salt to taste.

Cut 1 strip of lard into bite size pieces. Fry them. When browned remove from heat and add 1 whole link of butifarra and/or any other sausage to accompany the beans.

Mix beans with sliced carrot, lard  and sausages other then butifarra. Pour this into a serving dish.  Add enough juice from boiling to make soppes. Take the link of butifarra and circle it around the dish.

Serve with allioli in a separate dish.


[1] See blog titled almorí published August 25, 2011.
[2] A Catalan reknown white sausage.
[3] See blog titled allioli published April 4, 2016 for recipe.