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Monday, May 25, 2015

IJAR WITH A 15TH CENTURY RECIPE PERFECT FOR LEFTOVER MEAT


Browning Meat in Bacon Fat
Photo by: Lord-Williams
OCast yjada, Ar. janb, Eng flank (of fish and some mammals). Perry while admits that janb in Arabic is “flank”, in Anon Al-Andalus, he translates this as breastbone. Huici translates it as costado, “a side of flank.” In the four recipes provided, three are roasted, of which two are stuffed, and the fourth is fried. Nola calls for boiling the flanks including a flank of tunny.  [Anón/Huici.1966:32-34:31-32:166:292; ES: Anon/Perry. Sep 5 02:20:86:ftn 7; Ibn Razīn/Granja.1960:108:25; and Nola. 1989:xlviii-3:lv-3: lxviii-1 
An Excellant Broth
Photo by: Lord-Williams
BROTH OF LARDED STEWED MEAT IN A VERY TASTY FASHION ADAPTED  FROM NOLA'S lv-3 BROETE LARDERO DE MUY BUENA FACCION

Ingredients

 ½ lb breasts or flanks of mutton
4 thick slices of bacon
1 slice toasted bread
1 qt broth from boiling the meat

Preparation

Boil mutton breasts or flanks enough to loose their color. Cut into pieces the size of a thumb. Thinly slice bacon into pieces the size of small feathers.

Heat a frying pan and spread the bacon lengthwise in the pan to create grease. When the bacon finishes excreting fat, remove it and gently fry the meat in this.  Add the meat to the broth from boiling the mutton and brown it.

Make a sauce from the broth, adding a slice of toast and a chicken liver. Put this in a food processor and grind until smooth. Strain this thought a cheesecloth. Serve immediately while hot.
Variation concocted by the Spanish Medieval Chef:

After boiling the meat use it or the leftovers from it to make pieces the size of a finger. Roll each piece in a ½ - 1 slice of bacon, enough to cover it horizontally and secure it with a toothpick.

Heat a frying pan. Add a slice of bacon to create enough grease to fry the lamb and bacon pieces. Add the pieces and brown on both sides.

Makes a sauce consisting of 1 ½ c broth or drippings of the prepared meat combined with 1 c water. Bring to a boil and cook until the sauce thickens. Serve immediately as a dip with warm lamb and bacon rolls for hors d'oeuvres.

Either way, Nola's version and the Medieval Spanish Chef's are first class solutions of leftover meat!


LIBRO DE COCINA DE RUPERTO NOLA
AÑO MDXXV


LIBRO DE COCINA DE RUPERTO NOLA
AÑO MDXXV
BROETE LARDERO DE MUY BUNA FACCIÓN
TRANSLATED INTO CASTILLEAN FROM CATALAN
BY DIONISIO PERÉZ
Los pechos de carneros tomarás o las ijadas; y darles has de hervor porque pierden el color de sangre; y después hacerlos pedazos tan grandes como el dedo pulgar; y tomar tocino muy gordo, y hacer de ellos tajaditas delgadas y menudas como una pluma y echar cada pedazo metido a laluenga de aquel tocino cortado y después toma el tocino y dirrítelo; y desque hayas sacado toda la gordura sofreír con ello la dicha carne, y después ponla dentro de una olla con ello la dicha carne; y después tomar pan tostado; y majarlo todo junto, y pasarlo por estameña todo y después destemplarlo con buen caldo de la olla mezclado con agraz; y vinagre, y con especias menudas, y darle color de liebre; y esta es muy buena salsa.
LARDY BRUET IN A VERY GOOD FASHION
TRANSTLATED INTO
ENGLISH BY LADY BRIGHID NI CHIARAIN
FROM NOLA’BROETE LARDERO DE MUY BUENA FACCION
You will take the breasts of mutton or the flanks, and give them a boil, so that they lose the color of blood; and then make pieces as big as your thumb. and take very fatty bacon and make little slices of it, small and thin as a feather; and cast each piece lengthwise along that cut bacon and then take the bacon and melt it; and when you have extracted all the grease, gently fry the said meat with it; and then put it into a pot with the broth of another pot; and then take a hen's liver, and a little mutton, and make everything boil together and then take toasted bread, and grind everything together; and strain everything through a woolen cloth; and then blend it with good pot-broth mixed with verjuice and vinegar, and small spices, and give it the color of a hare; and this is very good sauce.




Wednesday, May 20, 2015

IDRISI, AL - WITH 14TH CENTURY RECIPE FOR ASPARAGUS IN SAUCE

Tabula Rogeriana by Al-Idrisi
(for King Roger)
Photo from: Zertal
(Abu Abdullah Muhammad Ibn Muhammad Ibn Abdullah Ibn Idris Ash-Sharif), 1099-1166 or 1180 (?). He was born in Ceuta and educated in Cordoba. He traveled extensively ending up in the court of Roger II of Sicily where he became a geographer and physician.

For King Roger he created the first globe of the world. It is made of silver and weighs 400 k. This accompanied the work that is now called The Book of Roger, a geographical encyclopedia composed for the king. After 15 years of work, he presented these to King Roger in 1154 just before his death. The manuscript is based on Islamic and Hellenistic sources, his own travels and those of a team of draftsmen working for him. This study proved to be surprisingly accurate and of great use to explorers who went to America.
Green Aparagus
Photo by: Lord-Williams

It is said that the English call sherry thus for his maps of Spain on which he wrote the Islamic name for Jerez, “Sherisch” appeared. Further, Al-Idrisi wrote several works on the medicinal effects of plants including Kitab al-Jami-li-Sifat Ashtat al-Nabatat. Due the numerous plants he identified in several languages, many became available to physicians in various countries. See jerez and sándalo. [ES: Burns. Feb 14, 01; and ES: Digitiser. Sep 1, 99; and Shamsuddín. Sep 21, 01]

ASPARGUS IN SAUCE ADAPTED FROM GREWE’S TRANSLATION OF SENT SOVÍ #CXVIII QUI PARLA CON SA DEUEN APERELLAR ESPÁRECHS AB SALSA. p. 141[1]
For 4-6 persons

Crispy Aspargus - Great Finger Food
Photo by: Lord-Williams
Ingredients

2 bunches of asparagus, medium size (20-24 stalks)
1 c sherry
1 tbsp dried tarragon leaves
1 tsp salt
1 tbsp olive oil
2 tbsp flour


Preparation

Peel the stems of the asparagus and wash them. Boil water in a deep pan in which the asparagus can be cooked standing up without doubling over. Boil asparagus until crunchy. Save the water.

Put the tarragon leaves in a small saucepan with the sherry and cook until the liquid is reduced. Then add 2 c of the water used to boil the asparagus and let it boil 2-3 minutes depending on size.

Heat olive oil in a frying pan. When hot, add the flour, stirring it until it becomes a paste. Add the tarragon and sherry with salt. Stir until a creamy texture is obtains (More water from boiling the asparagus may be added as needed.) Let cook for a few minutes.

Reheat the asparagus in the water that is left over from boiling them and cook until done. Heat the sauce and pour it into a bowl.  Finger bowls might be necessary.
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[1] See blog titled espárragos published April 28, 2014 for a different version of this recipe.



Monday, May 18, 2015

IBN RAZĪN WITH HIS 13TH C RECIPE FOR RIŶLIYYA, A LAMB DISH


Doors in narrow streets
Photo from: Maistra
Abū l-Qāsim ibn Muhammad ibn Abī Bakr ibn Razīn al-Tuŷībī al-Andalusī. (1227 or 1229[?]-1293). He was a native of Murcia. His grandfather was of the elite class, owned slaves and converted from Christianity to Islam. The family moved there from Segura prior to
Ibn Razīn’s birth. His father died when young. A cousin on the paternal side of the family became his guardian and saw to it that Ibn Razīn was well educated.

Granja believes that he wrote Fadālat Al-Jawān ("Delights of the Table") between 1238 and 1243, after the reconquest of Valencia by Jaime I of Aragon, and before Fernando III of Castile reconquered Murcia. Marín, however, believes that he wrote the MS during the second half of the 13th C.


Riŷliyya Served as Tastey Soppes

Photo by: Lord-Williams
Ibn Razīn left Murcia with his cousin sometime between 1247 and 1248 and went to live in Ceuta where Ibn Razīn continued his studies. In between 1251 and 1252, he moved to Béjaïa on the Barberry Coast (today Angelia) where he studied under Ibn al-Abbār who had a big influence on him intellectually.

In 1259 he moved to Tunis where he was a highly regarded aristocrat noted for his wisdom in intellectual circles. He taught courtesans and worked for the government as a secretary on various occasions. It is known that he wrote other manuscripts but only the titles have survived. He wrote poems and artistic and historical prose and epistles.

[Ibn Razīn/Granja. 1960:11-12; and Ibn Razīn/Marín. 2007:11-70]

RIŶLIYYA, A LAMB DISH ADAPTED FROM LA GRANJA SANTAMARÍA’S TRANSLATION OF FADALAT [120] OTRO PLATO LLAMADO RIŶLIYYA, p 25

Ingredients

Riŷliyya on a Platter 
with Sauce on the side
Photo by: Lord-Williams
1 lb lamb deboned flank
2 qts lamb broth
1 bunch purslane[1]

4 eggs

Preparation

Boil lamb in broth

Cut the purslane as finely as possible. Wash it carefully with salt and rub by hand to remove the mucilage.When the lamb is done add the purslane. Break eggs on top of the ingredients in the pot and let them pouch. As soon as the eggs are done, remove the ingredients from the pot.

The recipe does not explain whether to serve this as soppes or to serve the ingredients on a platter and save the broth to made a sauce.

A variation could also be to thicken the purslane with a cup of the broth and ¼ c flour to make a sauce to serve over a vol au vent. That would leave enough broth to make a sauce for the meat.



[1] As purslane was not available, watercress was used. Spanish is another possible substitute.


FADALAT LA COCINA ARABIGO-ANDALUZA SEGN UN MANUSCRITO INEDITO
[120] OTRO PLATO LLAMADO RIŶLIYYA, p 25
TRANSLATED FROM HISPANO-ARABIC TO CASTAELLAN
BY FERNANDO DE LA GRANJA SANTAMARÍA

Se toma la carne necesaria de borrego, y se prepara como la anterior. Cuando se ha puesto la olla a la lumbre se coge verdolaga tierna y nueva, que no tenga semillas, cortándose lo más fina posible. Se lava cuidadosamente con sal y se frota con las manos para quitarle la viscosidad. Luego se pone en la olla con la carne, y cuando está todo cocido se cogen huevos, se cascan y se echan en la olla, como se dijo antes, en esta misma parte del libro; se remueve con cuidado y se deja al rescoldo para que siga cociendo suavemente y se cuajen los huevos. Luego se sirve en una fuente y se come.



SUSAN LORD’S TRANSLATION INTO ENGLISH
CULINARY ABUNDANCERIYLIYYA, A LAMB DISH [361] EGGPLANT OMLET

Select meat required from a yearling lamb and prepare as above. While cooking take young tender seedless purslane and cut it as finely as possible. Wash it carefully with salt and rub by hand to remove the mucilage. Then add it to the pot with the meat and when all is cooked crack eggs and add them to the pot as above; gently stir and leave them on the heat to cook gently for the eggs to poach. Serve in a dowl.  .