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Wednesday, March 25, 2015

HOJAS WITH 13TH C RECIPE FOR LETTUCE HEADS WITH LEAVES

Preparing Lettuce Leaves
Photo by: Lord-Williams
OCast. fojas, Eng. 1. leaves on plants. 2. strips of solid pork fat. They are salted and hung as bones, with no meat attached. When ready for consumption slices or cubes are added to soups and other dishes for flavor. [Penco. 1995.145; Ramos. 1990:61; Serradilla. 1993:144; and Villena/Calero. 2002:41a]

MEDIUM SIZE  LETTUCE HEADS ADAPTED FROM HUICI’S TRANSLATION OF ANON AL-ANDALUS, #460 TERCIDO DE CABEZAS DE LECHUGA, p 252

Ingredients

1 lb chopped lamb
Adding Lettuce Hearts with Leaves
to Wilt in Stew
Photo by: Lord-Williams
1 tbsp olive oil
salt to taste
¼ onion
¼ tsp white pepper
1 tbsp dried cilantro
½ tsp ground cloves
1 tsp saffron
1 bullion cube
¼ c vinegar
2 egg slightly beaten
1 tbsp lavender

Preparation

Seal the meat in a pan with a little oil. Add salt, onion, cloves and saffron dissolved in the juices. Cook until the onion is transparent. Cover with 3 c water. Bring to a boil and simmer 30 minutes until the meat is tender.

Remove outer leaves from hearts of lettuce and quarter them lengthwise. Add them to the pot. Add vinegar and mix. When the leaves have wilted, thicken the sauce with slightly beaten eggs, add more mashed and dissolved saffron if necessary and sprinkle with lavender. Remove from heat and cover until the egg solidifies.
A Hearty Dish
Photo by: Lord-Williams


ANÓN AL ANDALUS #460
TERCIDO DE CABEZAS DE LECHUGA, p 252
AMBROSIO HUICI'S TRANSLATION
FROM HISPANO-ARABIC INTO CASTELLANO
 Se toma carne de carnero tierna y gorda, se corta en pedazos pequeños y se pone en una olla con sal, un pedazo de cebolla, pimiento, cilantro seco, clavo, azafrán y aceite; se pone a un fuego moderado y cuando está casi en sazón la lechuga, se le pone vinagre bueno y cuando acaba de cocerse, se espesa con huevo batido, azafrán y espliego y se saca al rescoldo. 

PERRY’S TRANSLATION INTO ENGLISH OF
ANON, AL-ANDALUS #460
Muthallath with Heads of Lettuce
 Take meat from a young, fat sheep and cut it in small pieces and put it in a pot with salt, a piece of onion, pepper, coriander seed, clove, saffron and oil. Put it on a moderate fire and when it is almost done, take heads of lettuce and their shoots without leaves, peel and cut up and add to the meat in the pot, and when the lettuce is done, add good vinegar and finish cooking it. Cover it with beaten egg, saffron and spikenard and take it to the hearthstone.




[1] A Medieval Spanish Chef’s addition.

Monday, March 23, 2015

HOJALDRE WITH A 13TH CENTURY PANCAKE RECIPE

Semolina
Photo by: Lord-Williams
OCast ojaldes, Leon hojaldra, Eng leaf-pastry which has developed into the puff or flaky pastry known today. In the 15th C it was made with lard and rolled out thin with a stick the forerunner of the rolling-pin. The art of pastry making, including leaf pastry was brought to Spain by the Persians. Puff pastry was not developed until butter was used instead of olive oil which is commonly in the Mediterranean region.

Although the French like to claim they are the inventors of all good recipes, it is unlikely that they developed puff pastry. It is not clear who the inventors were but the most likely regions are Austria, Turkey, Italy and Spain, as all were directly influenced by the caliphate in Baghdad.  

[Anón/Huici.1966:145:98;406:224:319:321;ES: Carroll-Mann.Guisados 2-art. Jun 6, 01:ftn 112; ES: Lord. Azucar Rojo. 8/24/11; Ibn Razīn/Granja.  1960:60:22; private correspondence with Robin Carroll-Mann and Terry Decker week of Nov 23, 08; and Trapiello. 1994:141]

DAVID FRIEDMAN’S ADAPTION OF PERRY’S TRANSLATION INTO ENGLISH OF ANON, AL-ANDALUS #406 PREPARATION OF MUSAMMANA [BUTTERED] WHICH IS MUWARRAQA [LEAFY]


Ingredients

2 c semolina flour
¼ c clarified butter for frying 
¼ c butter at the end 
aprox ⅝ c water[2]
Frying Semolina Pancakes
Photo by: Lord-Williams

¼ c honey at the end (or more)
1tbsp sugar
¼  c = ⅛ lb butter, melted

Preparation

Stir the water into the flour, knead together, then gradually knead in the rest of the water. Knead for about 5-10 minutes until you have a smooth, elastic and slightly sticky dough that stretches instead of breaking when you pull it a little.

A Very Tasty Dish to Set Before Your King
Photo by: Lord-Williams
Divide in four equal parts. Roll out on a floured board, or better floured marble, to at least 13"x15". Smear it with about 4 tsp melted butter. Roll it up. Twist it. Squeeze it together, flatten withyour hands to about a 5-6" diameter circle. If you wish, fold that in quarters and flatten again to about a 5-6" circle. 

Melt about 1 tbsp of clarified butter in a frying pan and fry the dough about 8 minutes, turning about every 1 ½  to 2 minutes (shorter times towards the end). Repeat with the other three, adding more clarified butter as needed. Melt ¼c butter,heat ¼  c honey. Beat the cooked circles between your hands to loosen the layers, put in a bowl, pour the honey and butter over them, dust with sugar, and serve.  If you are going to give it time to really soak, you might use more butter and honey.

For regular flour, everything is the same except that you may need slightly more water. You can substitute cooking oil for the clarified butter (which withstands heat better than plain butter)  if necessary.



ANÓN AL-ANDALUS 
#406 HECHURA DE ENGRASADA QUE ES EN HOJALDRE, p 224
AMBROSIO HUICI'S TRANSLATION
Se toma sémola pura o harina de trigo y se hace un amasado apropiado sin levadura y se rocía poco a poco y no se cesa de amasarlo hasta que se deshaga y tome su pinto y se ablande por donde se extiende un pedazo de él sin cortarse; entonces se pone un freidor Nuevo a un fuego moderado y cuando se ha calentado tomarás un pedazo de esa pasa y lo extiendes sobre mármol o sobre plancha en lamina Delgado y lo embadurnas con grasa fundida o con mantequilla deshecha en agua; luego enróllalo como una tela[1], hasta que se haga como una caña; luego entretéjelo y bátelo con tu puño hasta que se haga un pan delgado y redondo, y si quieres, dóblalo también; entonces lo extiendes y lo bates con tu puño por segunda vez hasta que se haga redondo y delgado; entonces lo pones en el freidor hasta que se ligue, luego lo sacas y haces lo demás hasta que termines la cantidad que necesites; luego lo bates entre tus manos y lo echas en mantequilla y miel; se hierve, y cuando se ha enfriado, espolvoréalo con azúcar molido y lo presentas.



CHARLES PERRY’S 
TRANSLATION INTO ENGLISH OF
ANON, AL-ANDALUS #406
PREPARATION OF MUSAMMANA [BUTTERED] WHICH IS MUWARRAQA [LEAFY]
Take pure semolina or wheat flour and knead a stiff dough without yeast. Moisten it little by little and don't stop kneading it [p. 63, verso] until it relaxes and is ready and is softened so that you can stretch a piece without severing it. Then put it in a new frying pan on a moderate fire. When the pan has heated, take a piece of the dough and roll it out thin on marble or a board. Smear it with melted clarified butter or fresh butter liquified over water. Then roll it up like a cloth until it becomes like a reed. Then twist it and beat it with your palm until it becomes like a round thin bread, and if you want, fold it over also. Then roll it out and beat it with your palm a second time until it becomes round and thin. Then put it in a heated frying pan after you have greased the frying pan with clarified butter, and whenever the clarified butter dries out, moisten [with butter] little by little, and turn it around until it binds, and then take it away and make more until you finish the amount you need. Then pound them between your palms[1] and toss on butter and boiling honey. When it has cooled, dust it with ground sugar and serve it.
[2] Add more water sparingly if ⅜ c is insufficient. (SLW)
[3] O esterilla.
[4] I'm not sure whether beating the cooked breads between the palms is intended to loosen the flaky layers or to crumble the breads. (CP)


Friday, March 20, 2015

HOGAZA WITH SPANISH RUSTIC SOURDOUGH LOAF RECIPE


Watch the Bread Rise
Photo by: Lord-Williams
Spanish rustic loaf; a large loaf of bread weighing 2 lbs or 24 oz.; sourdough bread. In León, it is bran bread or that made with badly sifted flour for peasants. Bread is something blessed there. If it falls on the floor, it is kissed. It must be always placed with the top side up, never the contrary. It is a bad omen to cut a loaf of bread with a knife. If anyone sticks a knife into it, he must stare at it to ward away evil.

[Ares. Gastronomía. 2000:117; and Gázquez. Cocina. 2002:72]

SPANISH RUSTIC SOURDOUGH LOAF ADAPTED FROM THERMOMIX PAN DE MASA MADRE

Ingredients
(for 1 kilo)

Do you See the Ruler?
Photo by: Lord-Williams
Sourdough:
50 ml water
1 tsp  fresh compressed bakers yeast
1 tsp sugar o honey or 1 heaping tbsp molasses
2 c bread flour

Bread dough
300 ml water
4 tsp fresh compressed bakers yeast
4 1/3 c bread flour
2 tsp salt

For the sourdough:

Mix water, yeast, sugar and flour.

Knead it into a ball and put it in a bowl. Boil it in lukewarm water. When the dough floats and is double in volume it is ready.

Sourdough Bread
Photo by: Lord-Williams
Dough for the bread:

Mix water, yeast, flour and salt with the sourdough. Knead 5 minutes. Let sit covered in a large bowl for two hours until double in size.

Move the dough and knead it making a round loaf with the dough. Put this on an oven tray that has been greased and lined with baking paper Let sit for 30 minutes until double in size. Make 1/4deep slashes in the dough for form a square with a sharp knife. 

PREHEAT OVEN TO 428ºF/220ºC

Bake 20 minutes. reduce temperature to 375ºF/190ºC and bake 20 more minutes.

Suggestion: Put a small ovenproof bowl filled with water and spray the bread from time to time with water to make it more  crunchy


Thermomix Imprescindible Thermomix® TM31
PAN CON MASA MADRE, p 54
Ingredientes
(para 1000 gr)

Masa madre

50 gr de agua
5 g de levadura prensada fuera de panaderia
1 cucharada de azúcar o  melaza (25 g)
100 g harina de fuerza

Masa de pan
300 g de agua
20 g de levadura presada fresca de panadería
540 g de harina de fuerza
2 cucharaditas de sal

Masa madre

1.     Pong en el vaso el agua, la levadura, el azúcar y la harina Amase programando 15 segundos, velocidad 4.

2.     Retire el vaso y forma una bola. Introduzca en un bol y cubra con agua templada. Cuando la bola de masa flote y doble de su volumen, estará lista.

Masa de pan

3.     Introduzca en el vaso la masa madre, el agua, la levadura, la harina y la sal. Amase programando 5 minutos, vaso cerrado, velocidad Espiga Deje reposar durante 2 horas en el vaso o en un bol grande cubierto con film transparente (hasta que doble su volumen).

4.     Retire sobre la superficie de trabajo enharinada y forma una bola lisa dándole la forma definitiva al pan. Coloque el pan sobre la bandeja del horno engasada (o forrada con papel de hornear). Deje reposar durante 30 minutos aproximadamente hasta que doble su volumen, haga unos cortes de 1 cm de profundidad formando un cuadrado con un cuchillo muy afilado (o con unas tijeras) y espolvoree con harina.

5.     Precaliente el horno a 220º.

6.     Hornee durante 20 minutos. Baje la temperatura a 190º y hornee durante 20 minutos más.

Sugerencia: Puede poner un pequeño bol refractario con agua en el interior del horno y, de vez en cuando, rover el pan con un pulverizador de agua, para que quede más crujiente.