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Tuesday, July 26, 2011

ALFORJAS (OBS), CARRILLADA, CARRILLERA, HOW TO CURE PORK JOWLS

OCast Leon arganzas, argenzos, Hisp Ar. alẖurǧ, Ar. ẖurǧ, Eng 1. saddlebags, knap sack, small sack opened in the center and closed at the ends, which form two big handles. Normally they are square. In this way the weight is evenly distributed. They are used to carry items from one place to another. 2. food provisions needed during a trip. 3. guanciale, pork jowls, pig cheek, bacon from the jawbone. Today, this is considered exquisite pork fat. It is said that the custom of treating it as a delicacy originating from Jewish and Moorish converts’ forced to consume it. [ES: Decaer. “SC.” Mar 15, 99; ES: Martínez Rodríguez. Nov 3, 01; ES: Shamsuddín. “Gastronomía.” Sep 21, 01; Pers. Memories. Slaughters Mostoles. 2000:2001:2003; and Sánchez Albornoz. 2000:116:188]

PIG HEAD PROFILE
Photo by: Lord-Williams

HOW TO CURE PORK JOWLS FROM THE MEDIEVAL SPANISH CHEF'S ARCHIVES:

Cut the jawbone off the head. Remove the glands on the jowl. Place it in a bed of rock salt, covering it well on all sides. Leave it for seven days, turning it from time to time to make sure it is well covered and the brine is absorbed. Add more salt as necessary.  

Remove the jowl from the salt brushing it off. Tie a rope around one end and hang it in the rafters for 1-3 weeks in a dry cool place with good ventilation until the meat and fat is stiff.  If mold forms scrape it off and rub the surface with very salty water.

Slice the bacon into ¼” stripes and fry.  Eat directly from the frying pan. It is to exquisite to eat with anything else.
 

3 comments:

  1. La papada de cerdo es la base de la auténtica pasta all'amatriciana; lo sé porque cuando vivía en Italia me lo contaron en l'Aquila, Abruzzi, de donde es originaria la receta (Amatrice es un pueblo). Lo que está ahora muy muy de moda es la carrillada o carrillera, sobre todo ibérica.

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  2. pasta all'amatriciana from the Italian town of Amatrice in l'Aquila, Abruzzi is spaghetti with tomatoe sauce (not medieval) pancetta or bacon from the jawbone and grated cheese. it is yummy!

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  3. The Dictionary of the Royal Academy of Spain defines "alforjas" as saddle bags as above but gives no other definition. So it would appear that "alforjas" is obsolete.

    It defines:
    carrillada - Parte grasa que tiene el puerco a uno y otro lado de la cara. Fat on each side of the face of a pig

    carrillera Quijada de ciertos animales. – Jaw of certain animals

    Indeed they are in vogue fried in oil with onion, garlic, rosemary, salt and pepper and served with rice or potatoes.

    Many thanks for pointing this out!

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