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Wednesday, October 26, 2011

APICIUS, CAELIUS WITH 4TH CENTURY LUCANIAN SAUSAGE RECIPE

Apicius, Caelius, (4 C AD?) author of De Re Coquinaria (“The Art of Cooking”). It contains 500 recipes divided into ten books of recipes for the upper classes. The book was printed in Milan in 1498 and in Venice in 1500. Then it became a widespread novelty being the oldest cookbook on record. Little is known about him. It has been conjectured that he was Marcus Gavius Apicius who lived during the reign of Tiberius. M.G. Apicius was known for a few anecdotes about him and numerous culinary inventions. According to Seneca, he committed suicide when he found that he had spent his fortune on food and would starve to death. [Apicius/Flower. 1958:13]


Sausage Making


LUCANIAN SAUSAGE ADAPTED FROM APICIUS
LUCANICAE, P 68
for 6 persons

Ingredients

1 lb belly pork, minced
2 tbsp pine kernels
25 peppercorns
1 tsp chopped fresh or dried rue
2 tsp dried savory
1 ½ tsp ground cumin
2 tsp chopped fresh parsley
20 laurel berries, if available
*3 tbsp garum
6 sausage skins, 12” lengths


David Teniers 'Sausage Making. . .
Photo by: hanneoria

Preparation


Grind all ingredients in a meat grinder. Knead the mixture well.

Tie a knot at one end of the sausage skin with one end of the string. Place the funnel attachment on the meat grinder. Attach a sausage skin and stuff it, leaving about 1” of skin to allow for shrinkage. Tie the sausage into four links and tie the other end shut. Prick each link several times with a pin.

Smoke them. In northern Spain, the links are hung from the rafters or mantelpiece in the kitchen. They are left until needed. Wood is preferred fire for the aroma. Today, coat hangers are arranged over open fires from which the sausage is hung for a few hours.

*See almorí for recipe.

1 comment:

  1. Perhaps it may be interesting to know that "Lucanian" has given name, in Northern Italy, to "lucanica" or "luganega", a kind of thick sausage. I imagine belly pork is the part used for bacon? In France I have tasted "andouilletes", a very rare sausage filled with tripes. To eat them you must be provided with a good stomach and a bottle of good red wine.

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