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Monday, October 31, 2011


Justo Kneading Scrapes of Meat
Ricardo Supervising
Photo by: Lord-Williams
scraps of meat; residue of fatty parts after scrapping the pieces; scarped pork rib ends (in Segovia). Although these are actually seasoned scrapings used to stuff large sausages or tripe, the word has come to mean the sausage or stuffed tripe. They are tied or sewn, hung and eaten after boiling especially in carnival season. The term extended to mean scrapings used in dishes of Arab origin such as androllas (in this case the stomach stuffed with entails and scraps of meat), eggplant, squashes, millet, Moorish gachas, tajines, pine kernels from Huelva, gitanillas or trianeros and harisa in the Maghreb. In the Middle East, it referred to a popular pastry made with semolina and syrup. It is also a sauce containing ground wheat, moistened with a meat broth, boiled until the wheat is completely dissolved. The consistency is not thick but like a rice soup. Further, the term extended to “rice hairs” with fermented breadcrumbs. Also see alcuzcuz and cideruela. [Cejador. 1990:99; and Sanz 1967:15]

Photo by: Lord-Williams


2 oz dewlap, skin and meat below pig’s chin
3 ½ oz salt
1 ¾ oz. sugar
0.8 oz pepper
1 chopped onion
1 chopped leek
1 chopped carrot
1 tsp cloves
1 bay leaf
1 tsp thyme
1 ½ oz fresh figs
1 oz ceps (Boletus edulis, mushrooms)

For the Sauce:3 tbsp muscatel wine
¼ c broth made with bones, celery, carrots, onion and a leek
1 tbsp butter

chopped chives
Entire Jaw Showing Dewlap  from Pig Slaughter 2000
Photo by: Lord-Williams


A dewlap is considered to be a scrap of meat and, therefore is inexpensive. As it contains a large percentage of inter-muscular fat, consumption is limited. It is recommended that a person should not eat more than 3.5 oz of this meat in a day. A small amount is enough to get a taste of it.

The dewlap, as other parts of the pig’s body, contains a large quantity of short hairs, which are most disagreeable if swallowed. Burn all the hairs before beginning to cook this product. This can be done with a blowtorch or by holding the dewlap over a gas burner on the stove using kitchen thongs.

Once all the hair is removed, prepare a marinade for the dewlap. Mix the salt, pepper and sugar. Cover the dewlaps with this. Cover and let sit for at least 6 hours but no more than 10. This process brings out the flavor of the dewlap and it will tighten the meat in case it is not as tight as desired.

Once marinated, wash the dewlap well with cold water. Boil it in broth made by covering it with water and adding the onion, leak, and carrots. For aroma add cloves, thyme and bay leaf.

Bring to a boil and then lower heat to boil gently for 3 to 4 hours depending on the quantity. Test for doneness sticking it with a thin sharp needle taking care not to hurt the piece of meat. When the needle enters and comes out easily it is cooked. Turn off the heat and let it sit in the broth until it cools down. Very carefully remove the pieces from the broth and let it cool down completely. After a few hours the dewlap will acquire a more solid consistency and can be easily carved.

Clean the ceps, especially the stem. The best way to clean them is to rub the bottoms and turning the mushrooms to wipe off the dirt. Never peel them for they are not like potatoes and never submerge them in water. Avoid using brushes or instruments that could damage the skin. Once cleaned, slice them 1/3” thick and grill them.

Prepare the sauce for the dewlap. Sauté the moscatel until the volume is reduced to one half. Add the broth concentrate made with bones, which has been strained. Continue reducing the sauce until it becomes a thick sauce. At the last moment add 1 tbsp butter to give it a little shine.

Peel the figs and quarter them. Cut the dewlap in half. Score all four sides of each piece on a grill or in a non-stick frying pan. It is not necessary to add oil or lard as the dewlap has enough to prevent it from sticking. Cook each side until crispy on the outside. This crust adds more flavor to the meat.

Place the dewlap and the mushrooms in a serving dish with the figs around them. Pour the moscatel sauce over the meat to make it shine. Garnish with chives and sprinkle salt over it. Serve warm.

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