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Tuesday, May 1, 2012

BROETE DE VERINES A MEDIEVAL SUBTLETY WITH 15TH RECIPE

real almond 'milk'
Photo by: keytaykat
green broth, a subtlety (subtle surprise). Almond milk is saved and prior to serving, it is poured over a parsley and almond milk mixture, making it white on top and surprise green underneath. Meat or other food can be cooked in the green broth. Pérez explains that the word verines is obsolete. Today, the word is verdín, which according to the RAE means the green color of new spouts or young shoots of plants. Carroll-Mann explains that verin in Catalan means “varnish” thus explaining the layer of almond milk covering the green broth to look like a coat of varnish. See verdines. [ES: Carroll-Mann. Guisados 2-art. Jun 6, 01:99:ftns 48 and 49; ES: RAE. 2001; and Nola. 1989: xxviii-3; Nola/Pérez. 1994:215]

A BRUET CALLED "VERINES" ADAPTED FROM NOLA'S xxviii-3 BROTE BIEN QUE SE DICE VERINES

Ingredients

1 qt chicken broth for the almond milk:
2 ½ lbs chicken with bones chopped
2 stalks celery with leaves chopped
2 carrots chopped
2 onions quartered
2 bay leaves
½ tsp thyme
½ tsp basil
8 whole peppercorns


green broth
Photo by: boo_licious
For the almond milk:
6 c raw almonds peeled
¼ c breadcrumbs

For the green broth:
1 large bunch of parsley
1 tsp ginger
¼ c breadcrumbs

Preparation

For the broth:

Place all the ingredients for the chicken broth in a pot cover with 1 ½ qts water. Slowly bring to a boil. Reduce heat. Skim off foam. Cover and simmer 2 hours.

Remove the chicken from the pot and let cool. Remove the meat from the bones and discard the bones. Save the meat. Strain the broth, discard vegetables, herbs and peppercorns. 

For the almond milk:

Soak almonds in the chicken broth overnight. The following day put the almonds and broth in a food processor and grind. Strain the almonds and chicken broth through a cloth. Divide the almond milk in half and set one half aside.

Almond soup

by kosherfood 
For the green broth:

Put ½ of the almond milk in a saucepan. Chop the parsley add it and the ginger to the almond milk.  Bring it to a boil and simmer. Slow add breadcrumbs, stirring constantly until the mixture thickens. Purée this in a food processor and pour into individual soup bowls. Add 1 c of the chicken cut into bite size pieces.

For the finished dish:

Heat the other half of the almond milk in a saucepan and bring it to a boil. Slowly add breadcrumbs, stirring constantly until the mixture thickens. Pour this over the green broth. Garnish at will.


5 comments:

  1. Verdín is a word still in use today to describe the kind of moss-like slippery seaweed over the rocks or sand covered partially by the tides. Verdinas are also a kind of green beans typical of Asturias, where they are prepared usually with clams as an alternative to the heavier fabada.
    This recipe souns rather modern and contemporary for the ginger touch and also for the "surprise" presentation in two layers.

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  2. As for ginger, this has come back into use in Spain. I cannot blame Franco but there is a vast period all over the world where spices are not used. Pepper is something one still must ask for on Latin tables. Ginger is almost as common as cinnamon in Mediterranean medieval recipes.
    "Surprise" elements were part of banquet feasts. They were the show performed while an animal was carried out after being roasted on a spit and then carved before the guests. While the guests waited, subtleties were served or actors put on a performance.
    Soup with green and white layers were a delight!

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  3. Those banquets were real fun! Nowadays you must wait respectfully in silencewhile the waiter explains you the ingredients and techniques of the dish (which naturally gets cold in the meanwhile!).
    In Spain ginger is back SO very lately! I dare say only 15 years ago at the most, I think as the result of Asiatic food fashion. In fact the first to sell ginger root were Chinese supermarkets. I speak of fresh ginger, not powder one. This continued to be popular in Europe for gingerbread and ginger cookies, but not in Spain: if you want ginger cookies you must buy those imported from England in some specialised store.

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  4. When I narrate banquets, I explain the dish before it is served. The waiters are not allowed to move until I finish my discourse. Then they parade to serve the dishes warm.
    Actually that is not as authentic as cold food at banquets, which was the norm. The Duke of York, later Eduard IV, had his kitchens outside one of his castles (I forget which). Even as late as 1925 during the reign of Alfonso XIII of Spain, food was cold by the time it reached the dining room in the Royal Palace in Madrid as the kitchens were in the basement. As a result, his cousin, the Duke of Suecia sent him a wooden box the size of a television from the 1950's with tubing to connect to a radiator and a note, "It seems incredible that my cousin the king must eat cold food!

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  5. The reason why kitchens were usually outside or at a distance was fire and other inconveniencies as smoke, smells and noise. Ekaterina the Great of Russia built a small dining pavillion in Peterhof palace, in the outskirts of St. Petersburg. The kitchen was just in the ground floor, and the food was raised to each host's place by a clever device. There was a kind of "individual" lift for everyone, and plates appeared in the hole in front of you as by magic. The invention was not only to provide hot foot, but also intimacy between Ekaterina and her guests, as often as not handsome officers and members of her personal body guard...

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