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Wednesday, August 8, 2012

CAPAR WITH 14TH C RECIPE FOR GEESE AND CAPON IN ALMOND MILK AND EGG SAUCE

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("aphrodisiac" hog balls)
Photo from: BarStu

to castrate. Pigs are castrated at a very young age to fatten them more rapidly and the meat tastes better. Both males and females are castrated. The female’s ovaries are removed. Pigs are castrated on the same table where they are slaughtered later. Capadores are people specialized in this field. They go from town to town to perform the operation. Ibn Zuhr described animal testicles as hot and humid, if compared with the animal from which they come. He claimed they are very nutritious, present no difficulty in digestion, have a marked aphrodisiac nature and generate healthy nutrition.  In Extremadura pigs’ testicles or “hog balls” were referred to as turmas or criadillas as they are thought to be as exquisite as truffles. They are fried or grilled. The Medieval Iberian manuscripts reviewed do not offer a recipe for preparing them. Perhaps the capadores ate them before they could reach royal kitchens. Castrated chickens did make it and there are several recipes for them in various manuscripts See capirotada, criadillas and trufa. [Ibn Zuhr/García Sánchez. 1992:145; and Serradilla. 1993:31-32]

GEESE AND CAPONS[1] IN ALMOND MILK AND EGG SAUCE ADAPTED FROM SENT SOVÍ #LXI QUI PARLA CON SE APARELLEN OQUES E CAPONS, E LA SALSA QUE S’I FFA AB LET DE AMELLES AB MUYOLS D’OUS, p 105

Ingredients

1 goose, capon or hen about 2 lbs

Ready to Stuff the Capon
Photo by: Lord-Williams
for stuffing:
1 garlic clove
1 onion
2 apples
1 c raisins
1 slice bacon
1 tbsp chopped parsley
salt and pepper to taste
1 tsp thyme

for sauce:
2 hard boiled eggs
1 c almonds
1 c chicken broth
½ tsp pepper
1 scraping ginger
¼ tsp ground cloves
¼ tsp mashed saffron
1 tbsp grease from fowl being roasted
salt to taste
2 tbsp verjuice
 ¼ c honey

Preparation

Wash the fowl inside and out. Remove the innards and save for another recipe. Cut off claws and save for making broths. Cut off neck and save with the innards. Discard the head. Scorch the bird to eliminate any fuzz. Grease it inside and out and salt it.

Absolutely Delicious!
Photo by: Lord-Williams
For the stuffing: boil the garlic, onion, raisins, apples and streaky bacon. When soft remove and cut raisins in half. Discard seeds. Chop the bacon and mash the garlic. Mix all well adding parsley, salt and pepper to taste and thyme. Stuff the bird with this. Sew it well to roast on a spit or in the oven at 400ºF /200ºC. Tie the legs and secure the wings. Roast for about 45 minutes.

For the sauce: boil the eggs. Make almond milk by grinding almonds and adding chicken broth. Grind again and stain through a cheesecloth. Heat this and add egg yolks, pepper, ginger and cloves. Mash saffron and dissolve it in a little almond milk. Add this to the mixture and bring to a boil. Add hot grease. Season with salt, verjuice and honey. When boiled, pour into bowls adding meat carved off the roasted capon.

[1] To date, blogs containing recipes in which capon may be used have been published as follows: albarda, Oct 10, 10; albardar, Nov 26, 10; almendra, Aug 8, 11; angeo, Oct 11, 11; Ave María, Dec 26, 11; cañamo, Jul 31, 12; and capón Aug 10,12.

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