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Thursday, August 9, 2012


Capirotada y Pyracantha I
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(fr. capirote, cape, hood), hooded dish, a sauce or dressing used to cover a dish. The most noted contain roasted hens, doves or partridges. The ingredients for the sauce can vary but generally consist of grated cheese, beaten eggs, garlic, spices and broth. It has nothing to do with today’s “capirotada,” which is bread pudding. The classical recipe in the 14-15 C was known for its magnificence. For those practicing culinary art, successfully producing this dish is the essence of refined cooking. After the meat is roasted, it is carved into medium size pieces. These are placed on a bed of pieces of bread soaked in raw egg and toasted, sprinkled with grated cheese and seasoned with pepper, nutmeg and ginger. All is layered in the shape of a pyramid alternating the toast with the various food items and covered with eggs broken over the top and a sauce. Sometimes the dish is browned in the oven. As per Juan Ruíz, it was a select dish frequently eaten to move clerics, friars and laymen to love. Nola states that it is the same as almadrote when he uses this garlic and cheese sauce as a “hood” for his capírotada dish, which seems to be an elaboration of the recipe in Sent Soví. Nola's recipe was published the blog with the title almadrote on August 25, 2011. [Anón/Grewe. 1982:CXXXXI:160-161; Delgado. 1985:56; ES: Carroll-Mann. Guisados 2-art. Jun 6, 01:98:ftn 32; Lladonosa. Cocina. 1984:156; Nola 1989:xxii-1:lii-3; Nola/Pérez.1994:191; Ruíz/Brey. 1965:1276b:199; Villena/Calero. 2002:27ª:60b and Villena/Navarro. 1879:208-209]
For 6 persons

Spit Roasting a Chicken
Photo by: Lord-Williams

5 garlic cloves
¾ c grated cheese
2 hard boiled egg yolks
1 c olive oil
½ c hot water
1 tsp mixed spices[1]
salt to taste
1 chicken cooked and cooled

chopped parsley
pomegranate arils


Almadrote is an emulsified sauce similar to today’s allioli but with a different flavor.

Chicken with Almadrote Sauce which is Capírotada
Prefect for a Hot Summer Evening
Photo by: Lord-Williams
Mash the garlic cloves in a mortar and add hard boiled egg yolks. Mash those with the garlic. Add cheese and olive oil one drop at a time beating vigorously. If the sauce has a tendency to separate add a few drops of very hot water. Season with spices and salt to taste.
This sauce is used to accompany, being served on the side, or as part of a dish as in the case of Almadrote pottage with partridges in the sauce.

*See blog titled almadrote, published August 23, 2011 for Nola's version, blog titled cerdo lechon, published Febraury 11, 2012 for Sent Soví's #CXXXXII another version and esparcita, published April 25, 2013 for Villena's.
[1] Mix 1 tsp cinnamon, 1 tsp ginger, ¼ tsp cloves, 1 ¾ c sugar. Save the leftover mixture for future recipes.

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