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Monday, September 30, 2013

CUARTELADO WITH 14TH CENTURY MUTTON JANET RECIPE WITH PEARS AND QUINCE


Quartering Lamb
Photo by: Lord-Williams
quartered body. See quarteles.

JANET OF MUTTON OR KID POTTAGE IN ADOBE ADAPTED FROM SENT SOVÍ CXXVI QUI PARLA CON SE DEU FFER JANET A CABRIT HO MOLTÓ, pp 149-150
For 6 persons

Ingredients

1 lb breast and neck of mutton
½ c white wine*
1 c red wine*
3 c broth
1 tsp sage
1 tsp parsley
salt to taste
1 tbsp virgin olive oil
¼  lb streaky bacon
¼  lb mutton liver (about ½ liver)
1 onion chopped
salt to taste


Stewing Fruit with Spices
Photo by: Lord-Williams
For the fruit*:
2 sm white pears
1 quince[1]
1 c honey
1 cinnamon stick
1 tsp whole cloves
1 tsp pepper corns
1 scraping ginger

For the sauce:

1 goat or lamb liver
1 pall of pork fat
1 small slices of toasted bread
-->
⅓ c vinegar
½ c almonds
1 tbsp honey
1 ginger shaving
1/8 tsp ground cloves
¼ tsp ground cinnamon
 tsp ground white pepper
1 pinch of a mace shaving[2]
¼ tsp saffron
1 pinch of nutmeg
1 egg[3]
1 tbsp vinegar

Preparation

Quarter a mutton or kid. Cut the fat off the mutton and cut it into pieces the size of a walnut from the neck and breast; put it in a dish with white wine. Marinade for at least 1 hour.

A Gourmet Dish for Kings
Photo by: Lord-Williams
Put a little oil in a frying pan. Dice the bacon and start cooking it in the oil. When half done remove it from the heat and aside. Slice the liver and fry it in the same pan. Add the onion. Once this is translucent (about 5 minutes), remove the liver, onion and all the grease possible and add the bacon and the pieces of mutton and cook about 10 minutes until browned on all sides.

Peel, quarter and pit the pears and quince. If using quince jelly (membrillo), put half in to the pot and save the other half. Boil in 1 qt of water with 1 c honey and spices. Once the water boils, reduce heat and gently boil 15-25 minutes depending on the fruit.

Put the meat into a pot with onion, red wine, broth, the liquid from the pears and quince and salt taste and heat. If using a pressure cooker cook one hour after coming to a boil, otherwise cook two hours.

For the sauce:
Soak day old bread in vinegar. Grind the almonds, liver, fat and bread with vinegar in a mortar. Add 2 c mutton broth and strain through a cheesecloth. Add honey and spices with a pinch of salt.  Add eggs beaten in vinegar.  Heat, stirring continuously with a whisk. Add the mutton, pears and quince. Cook until warm. If using membrillo dice it but do not add it when ready to serve or it will dissolve.

It should have a sweet and sour flavor due to the honey and the vinegar.

*The Medieval Spanish Chef’s additions.


[1] As quince was not available at the time of year that the recipe was prepared ½  lb quince jelly (membrillo) was used.
[2] Use a shaving from a nut of nutmeg if mace is not available.
[3] Sent Soví recommends adding an egg or two but the sauce was thick enough without it.

Friday, September 27, 2013

CUARESMA ITH 15TH CENTRY ROASTED TROUT IN ORANGE SAUCE RECIPE

Roasted Trout in Orange Sauce
Photo by: Lord-Williams
OCast quaresma, Eng Lent. During the 40 days of Lent not only was meat prohibited but all animal products. This included milk, butter, lard, cheese and eggs. Almond milk, consisting of ground almonds in broth and then strained, was used to substitute milk and olive oil substituted butter and lard. 

Medieval cookery manuscripts had an entire section dedicated to fish for not only Lent but other fast days during the religious year. It was customary to fast not only on some religious days but also on Wednesdays, Fridays and Saturdays.

Fish was hard to come by in the interior the Iberian Peninsula. Priests kept fish ponds. In 1581, after Philip II of Spain became King of Portugal, he had mules brought with fish packed in ice from Lisbon once a week to Madrid. Prior to that, his great, great uncle, Henry IV of Castile spent as much time as possible in Segovia, prized for its steams abounding with trout. [Nola/Iranzo.1982:171]

BREADED, ROASTED OR BOILED TROUT ADAPTED FROM NOLA, lvii-4 TRUCHA EN PAN O ASADA O COCIDA

Nola explains that trout must be scaled. If it is to be breaded add pepper and a scraping of ginger. If boiled, do not add trout until the water boils. When half cooked, add salt to give it more flavor. Then add ½ c vinegar to make it firm. Before serving add pepper and a little broth from the pot.


Slding Knife under Backbone to Remove Bones
Photo by: Lord-Williams
If roasting for 4 persons: 

Ingredients

4 trout
salt and pepper to taste
olive oil for basting

Garnish:
1 orange
3 sprigs mint

For the sauce:
juice from 1 orange
½ c water
1 pinch of salt
1 tbsp sugar[1]
drippings from the baking pan[2]

PREHEAT OVEN TO 475ºF/245ºC

After cleaning and scaling trout, wash it. Do not remove the bones as they produce a tastier dish.

A Trout to Compete with the Colorado Rockies!
Its that good!
Photo by: Lord-Williams
Season with salt and pepper and baste them with olive oil inside and out.  Put them in a roasting dish on a rack in the oven. Roast 25-30 minutes. Half way through roasting, turn the fish. When cooked, put them on a platter and sprinkle a sauce over them.

For the sauce: mix orange juice, water, salt and pan drippings. Bring to a boil and when it begins to boil add sugar. Stir until dissolved. Pour this over fish in a platter.

Garnish with wedges from one orange sliced and chopped mint.

After presenting the trout whole with garnish, proceed to carve. Remove the heads and tails. Peel off the skin. Open down the middle where the trout was cut to remove intestines. Slide the carving knife under the bones to remove them whole from both sides.

Serve trout filets on individual plates with some sauce, an orange wedge or two and a sprinkling of mint leaves.
____________________________________________________________

[1] The Medieval Spansih Chef’s addition as the sauce is bitter without it.
[2] Another Medieval Spanish Chef’s addition instead of 1 tbsp olive oil. The drippings yield more flavor.

Wednesday, September 25, 2013

CUAJAR WITH 15TH CENTURY RECIPE FOR CHICKEN AND TROTTERS IN GELATIN


to coagulate, to curdle; to solidify. Giladea or hiladea in medieval Catalan were gelatin dishes made to preserve food as in the case of meats: this can be done with fish as the bones and head contain a gelatinous substance that produce the same results as trotters from beef and lamb
Skinned and Sliced Beef Trotters
Photo by: Lord-Williams
. Also, gelatin can serve as decoration for different dishes, cut in pieces in different sizes or it can be used to cover dishes to make them shine. Further, gelatin can be dyed with plant coloring to make the dish showy. [Ibn Razīn/Granja. 1960:25]

CHICKEN AND TROTTERS IN GELATIN ADAPTED FROM NOLA #xxii-2 HILADEA QUE SE DICE GELATINA

Ingredients

1 calves’ trotter
4 sheep’s trotters
1 bottle white wine
Skinned Lamb Trotters
Photo by; Lord-Williams
1 chicken
1 ginger scraping
1 scraping mace
1 tsp saffron[1]
1 doz more or less of bay leaves
galingale or spikenard (optional)

Preparation

Have the butcher slice and skin a veal trotter. Wash well with skinned sheep’s trotters. Put all the trotters in a pot with 3 qts water and 1 bottle of white wine.  Add the spices and bring to a boil. Cook 4 hrs or 2 if using a pressure cooker.

Put a chicken in another pot and boil 30-45 minutes or until done. Let cool. Remove skin and carve removing the bones. Place this meat in a casserole and line the sides with bay leaves.

A Cool Summer Treat
Photo by: Lord-Williams
Remove the trotters from the pot. Discard bones and cut into pieces as large as a finger, if necessary. Place the pieces over the chicken in the casserole.

Strain the broth and pour it over the chicken and trotters. Let cool, then refrigerate 4 hours at least. When ready to serve, run a knife around the edges and turn the casserole out onto a platter.


If it does not congeal promptly, add a little galingale or spikenard.  

The Medieval Spanish Chef suggests a  sour cream sauce to accompany this dish. Mix 1 cup sour cream with:
1 tsp nutmeg
1 tsp sugar
1 tbsp chopped chives


[1] The Medieval Spanish Chef also added ½ tsp cinnamon, ½ tsp white pepper and ½ tsp nutmeg.



Monday, September 23, 2013

CUAJADO WITH RECIPE FOR VERY TASTY EGG AND CHEESE CASSEROLE


Casserole Ready to Pop into the Oven
Photo by: Lord-Williams
coagulated; dishes baked in the oven consisting of fresh curd cheese, other cheees and eggs. Vegetables such as spinach, eggplants or leeks. The Sephardi recipe mistakenly called ‘cuajada’ (it should be cuajado) consists of a combination of cheese with eggs which is served hot or cold. [Gitlitz. 1999:77-81; Misc. Conversations. Grahame Harrison and Elena di Pinto. Jun 13, 03]

MARÍA GONZALEZ’ EGGS AND CHEESE CASSEROLE, FROM GITLITZ’ A DRIZZLE OF HONEY, p 79
Serves 4

Ingredients

¼ lb hard cheese, such as Manchego
½ lb semisoft cheese 
¼ c crumbled fresh feta cheese
1 tbsp olive oil
4 eggs
¼ tsp saffron threads, crushed (optional)
A Very Tasty Dish Indeed
Photo by: Lord-Williams

Spice Mixture:
½ tsp ground pepper
½ tsp ground cumin
¼ tsp ground cloves
½ tsp ground cinnamon
           
1/3- ½ c chopped fresh parsley

Preparation

PREHEAT OVEN TO 350º F/175º C

Grate the hard cheese and cut the semisoft cheese into small chinks. Combine the three cheeses in a medium bowl.

Put the olive oil into a deep 8” diameter ovenproof casserole. Place the casserole in the oven until the oil is very hot, about 5 minutes.

Meanwhile, beat the eggs. Stir in the saffron. Add the eggs slowly to the cheese mixture and combine well. Add the spice mixture and the parsley.

Remove the heated casserole from the oven and pour the egg and cheese mixture in the dish. Return it to the oven. Bake for 30 minutes or until golden brown.

Serve warm or refrigerate and serve cold.

VARIATION

For a lighter casserole, whip the egg whites separately and fold them in last. Substitute ¼ c fresh chopped cilantro for half of the parsley in step 4. 

Friday, September 20, 2013

CUAJADERA WITH 15TH CENTURY RECIPE FOR EGGPLANT STUFFING

Slicing and Salting Eggplant
Photo by: Lord-Williams
1. a woman who peddled cuajadas (junket or rennet custard) in the streets. 2. a glazed earthenware bowl with a wide bottom for making cuajado (cheese and egg dish). 3. iron pot with a lid on which coals were placed to cook cuajados when there was no oven in the kitchen. [ES: RAE. 2001; Nola. 1989:xli-9; Nola/Pérez.1994:193]

EGGPLANT STUFFING ADAPTED FROM NOLA’S  xli-1 CAZUELA MOJI[1]




Frying Eggplant Pulp
Photo by: Lord-Williams
Ingredients

1 lb or 2 medium to large eggplants
1 tsp salt
¼ c and 1 tbsp virgin olive oil
1 c breadcrumbs
1 c grated cheese
½ tsp coriander
½ tsp caraway
1 tsp pepper
1 tsp cloves
1 scraping ginger
4 eggs beaten
saffron

garnish:
a drizzle honey
duke’s powder: (1 pinch of cloves, 1 ginger scraping, 1 tbsp sugar and ½ tsp cinnamon)

An Excellent First Course or Side Dish to Accompany Meat
Photo by: Lord-Williams
Preparation

Peel and slice eggplants in half. Boil in salted water 10 minutes. When soft, drain and scoop out the pulp and ring out the water by squeezing them in a coarse cloth and letting them drain on paper towels. Dice into 1” cubes. Discard the skins.

Heat a frying pan and add ¼ c oil, Fry the pulp. Add half the breadcrumbs and cheese. Stir continually for a few minutes.  Add coriander, caraway and ginger and half the pepper and cloves. Stir until all is well mixed. Add 2 eggs. Stir constantly until eggs coagulate and remove from heat.

IF USING AN OVEN PREHEAT TO 375ºF /190ºC

Pour this mixture into an ovenproof dish or a cuajadera, an iron pot on which burning coals will be placed on top of the lid.

Put 1 tbsp oil in a bowl. Add the other half of the beaten eggs, pepper and cloves and the saffron, the other half of the breadcrumbs and grated cheese. Mix well. Spread this mixture over the eggplant mixture to make a topping. Place this in the oven or in a cuajadera.  Cook 20 minutes covered or until the eggs have set.

Remove from heat. Drizzle with honey and sprinkle with duke’s powder.

Note: Instead of eggplants, this recipe can be made with chard or carrots.


[1] Moji is from the Hispano-Arabic muḥší and this is from Classical Arabic.maḥšū, meaning stuffing. The dish does taste like eggplant stuffing.

Wednesday, September 18, 2013

CUAJADA WITH A GOURMET + RECIPE FOR JUNKET

Boiling Ewe's Milk with Rennet
Photo by: Lord-Williams
ME cruddle (n. curdle), Eng casein. Junket, rennet custard made from ewe’s milk. It is believed that junket existed before cheese making was discovered. It is the product or stage of curdled milk prior to becoming cheese. Traditionally, junket was a product made by shepherds who stored ewe’s milk in a sheep’s stomach. As they romed with their herds he junket was produced by the movement and the heat of the stomach. It also came to be made by heating the milk in a pan and adding a piece of sheep stomach. Today, rennet is a chemical made and reproduced in laboratories and sold in pharmacies. Rennet custard is creamy like yogurt with a cheese texture. It is a common dessert in Spain today and is well known elsewhere. [Misc. Conversations. Grahame Harrison and Elena di Pinto. Jun 13, 03]

THE MEDIEVAL SPANISH CHEF’S RECIPE FOR JUNKET OR RENNET CUSTARD
For 4 persons
Ingredients

2 c ewe’s milk
1 envelope (12 g) of rennet[1]
1 tbsp sugar

garnish:
1 tbsp sugar
½ tsp cinnamon
1 drizzle of honey
mint leaves

This is a Gormet +
Photo by: Lord-Williams
Preparation

Put half the milk in a bowl and dissolve the rennet in it. Put the other half milk in a pan and bring to a boil. Stir without stopping. When it boils, add the milk with the rennet. Let it boil again. When boiling, remove from heat, stirring constantly for a minute. Return to the heat and let it boil again. Remove from heat and pour into custard cups or other dishes. Let this begin to solidify without stirring it. After it has cooled refrigerate for four hours or more until ready to serve.

When ready to serve. Remove the junket from the molds. Cover the tops with a drizzle of honey. Sprinkle a combination of sugar and cinnamon on top. Decorate with a few mint leaves.



[1] Junket powder can be bought in the pharmacy and it can also be found in the supermarket in the pudding section.