Entradas populares

Monday, January 20, 2014


lamb limp, literally
Photo from meganamyswart

literally sorrows and broken bones. Astrana, in his edition of Quixote, states that “duelos” (sorrows) means “dueños” (owners) or the sorrow of the owners for “quebrantos” (broken) referring to broken bones or other casualty of sheep or other animal for which the owner sacrifices and uses the broken bones for Saturday suppers. From 1212 until the 18th C, Saturdays were semi-abstinence days in memory of the first Spanish victory over the Moors in Navas, Iberia. Traditionally, in the Mancha, a hash called Duelos y Quebrantes was served for supper. It consisted of cooking salted and ground meat with bones. Offal and/or brains could be added.  Frequently, pork was used, as it was an ingredient Moors could not eat. Today, it consists of eggs, chorizo and bacon. [Cervantes. 1947:19:1003:ftn 4; ES: Mad. Sep 13, 07]

For 6-8 servings

Chopping Pork Products for Duelos y Quebantes
Photo by: Lord-Williams

3.5 oz lamb brains[2]
½ large onion
½ bay leaf
3.5 oz streaky salt pork or bacon
3.5 oz jamón Serrano
3.5 oz chorizo
8 eggs
1 tbsp parsley
salt to taste
fried bread or bread crumbs called gachas

Soak the lamb’s brains in water for 20 minutes.  Remove skin and veins. Cook in boiling water with the onion and bay leaf for 5 minutes. Drain and cut brains and the onion into pieces

Dice the ham. Peel the chorizo[3], slice and dice it. If using salt pork dice it. If using bacon fry slices without dicing. Do this by heating a frying pan and fry the bacon or salt pork. Do not add oil. Cook over a gentle flame so that it releases some of its fat. When reduced to half, increase the heat, add onion, pieces of ham and chorizo and fry together until the onion is translucent.

15th Century Bacon and Eggs
More Delicious than Ever!
Photo by: Lord-Williams
Then add the pieces of brain. If using bacon, remove it and let cool enough to crumble it and set aside.

Beat the eggs until frothy. Add them to the frying pan stirring constantly over gentle heat or use a double boiler to make them set evenly.

As soon as the eggs solidify, transfer them to an earthenware dish. Sprinkle with bacon, if using, and chopped parsley and serve with slices of fried bread.

There is no need to add salt because the salt pork or bacon and ham are salty enough but taste for salt half way through the cooking just in case.

Recipe selected by María Jesús Gil de Antuñano Recipe courtesy of Spain Gourmet Tour magazine.

[2] Lamb brains were not included as they were not found in the market at the time of year the recipe was prepared.
[3] The chorizo used contains paprika, which is a New World product. White pepper and wine were used in Medieval chorizos instead of paprika.

No comments:

Post a Comment