Entradas populares

Wednesday, March 26, 2014

ENSAIMADAS WITH A MODERN VERSION OF NOLA'S 15TH CENTURY RECIPE

Homemade Ensaimadas
Photo by: Lord-Williams
Cat. Val casquesta, It  pastisset(candied quince fritter), Eng ensaymada, a sweet Arab pastry. It was made with leaf pastry (which developed into fluffy pastry) in the shape of a spiral and filled with honey and nuts or other fritter paste; today it is like a croissant filled with angel hair. Lard in Arabic is saim. Ensaymada literally means lard in a mass (of flour and water).  It is typical of the Ebro River region where it is made with clarified pork lard instead of fat  from sheep as per the Arab custom. Casquestas are served in Xerta (Tarragona) on St. Martin’s Day. The ensaymada is a Malloquin specialty today. See cabello de ángel. [ES: Carroll-Mann. Guisados 1-art. Jun 6, 01:134:56:103:ftn 109; ES: Vicente. n/d; ES:
“Xerta,” n/d; and Nola.1989:xlv-3]


Weighing and Dividing Dough
Photo by: Lord-Williams
A MODERN VERSION ENSAyMADAS ADAPTED FROM THE THErMOMIX VERSION DATED MARCH 14, 2012 AND FROM NOLA’S XLV-3 ROSQUILLAS DE FRUTA QUE LLAMADA CASQUETAS EN VALANECIA Y EN BARCELONA[1]

½ c powdered sugar

for sour dough:
¼ c lukewarm water
2 tsp fresh or dry yeast
5/6 c bread flour

for the ensaymada dough:
            ½ c water
            1/3 c sugar
2 eggs
¼ c lard
1 c sour dough
4 c bread flour
½ tsp salt
2 tbsp olive oil
 
Painting Stretched Dough with Lard
Photo by: Lord-Williams
½ c melted lard

Filling at will.

Preparation

It is necessary to begin this recipe the day before it is to be served as the dough must rest overnight.

For the sour dough:

Dilute the yeast in water. Add the flour and all the other and beat until dough is even. Make it into the form of a soft ball and place it in lukewarm water. Leave until it begins to float (about 15 minutes).
Rolling Stretched Dough Lengthwise like a Snake
Photo by: Lord-Williams

For the “ensaymada” mixture:

Put all the ingredients except the olive oil into a mixing bowl. Mix until the dough is even, then knead it well. When done pour the oil over the surface of the dough. Cover with a cloth and let rest in a warm dry spot over night.

Divide the dough into 12 balls about 75 grams or 1/3 c each. Let sit one hour. Then roll each out making the dough as thin as possible. Paint each piece with melted lard. Line one side, lengthwise, with filling if desired[2]. Then roll the dough like a snake. Curl this like a sleeping snake with a little space between each curl. Put the ends under the dough to prevent them from growing when cooking.

Spraying Curled Snake-like Dough with Water
Photo by: Lord-Williams 
Grease and flour a cookie or baking sheet. Put each roll on it. Leave enough space for the masses to grow in volume.

PREHEAT OVEN TO 350ºF/180ºC.

Before baking, spray them with water. Bake for 40 to 60 minutes depending on the oven.

When done let cool on racks. Then sprinkle with powdered sugar and serve.

[1];For more primitive interpretations of this recipe see blogs titled amazar, published September 19, 2011 and bizcochar published March 14, 2012. Both recipes give detailed instructions for fillings as per Nola. This recipe today does not offer any particular filling but sweet sauces and pastes are most welcome.


No comments:

Post a Comment