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Fresh Chickpeas Photo from Katherine Martinelli |
OCast. garuanzos,
garvanços, chicharo (in Roman times) Cat ciurons,
L. Cicer arietinium, Ar. himmaş, humaiş (little chickpeas),
MEng chyches, Eng. chickpeas. They grow best in predominantly
muddy areas with plenty of sun. The Arabs brought them to Spain from the
Orient, supposedly to the city of Cartagena in southwestern Spain.
Unlike the Romans, who laughed at anyone eating them, the
Spaniards are said to have incorporated the chickpea readily into their cuisine
“to keep the wife at home.” It was thought that chickpeas augmented sexuality
by increasing the multiplication of sperms, maternal milk and menstrual
periods, which of course left the wife very busy indeed.
Although the 13th C Hispano-Arab cookbook refers
to it as an item only eaten by the poor, Arabs refuted this theory recalling
the legend in “The Perfumed Gardens.” There, Abu el- Heidja in a single night
“deflowered” eight virgins after a dinner of meat, onions, chickpeas and camel
milk. Fadalat, the other surviving 13th
C Hispano-Arab culinary manuscript, provides three recipes for chickpeas.
The dried chickpea, being as hard as a bullet, is not edible until
it has soaked overnight in water and then cooked for a long period of time.
Reputedly the best chickpeas in Spain are those with brown specks and the tastiest are
those from Valdeviejas, a town adjacent to Astorga. Those from Quintanilla de
Somoza and Piedralba de San Cristobal (Leon) are reportedly as soft as pork fat
once boiled briskly. In Astorga, highly regarded are those from Manjarín and
Valle Oscuro, which are grown in predominately muddy soil. Further, planting
and harvesting must be taken into account for the chickpea to “have a nice
face.”
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Dried Chickpeas Photo by: Lord-Williams |
There is a proverb in La Maluenga: “On St. Mark’s Day (April
25th), the chickpea is not born or sown”. It is planted between the
middle of January and the later part of April, before St. Mark’s Day.
Harvesting commences in the beginning of May. The chickpeas served with cocido
are brought to the table in separate earthenware dish in Leon but elsewhere in
Spain all the ingredients are served on the same platter.[1] Spanish
Jewish Sabbath stews frequently included chickpeas.
In England, chickpeas are planted in September and October
to prevent frosts from hurting the plant. Generally, they are boiled although
there does exist an English medieval recipe called chyches, which calls for roasting chickpeas in ashes and
then boiling them with spices, saffron, garlic and a little oil.
Chickpeas are used for fodder as well as human food as in
southern Europe, Africa and Asia. See cocido,
cocido maragato and puré de
garbanzos. [Ares. “Comidas.” 1994: 85-86; Camba. 1995:46; Curye.
1985:73:114:178; ES: Benavides-Barajas. “Cocina.” Sep 29. 01; ES: FAO ¨Ch 28.¨Feb 2, 98;
Gázquez. Cocina. 2002:67; Montoro/Ciceri. 1991:201:l.48; and Nola/Iranzo. 1982:169]
RECIPE FOR DRIED CHICKPEAS ADAPTED FROM IBN
RAZÍN/MARIN
SECCIÓN NOVENA, CAPÍTULO SEGUNDO, SOBRE LOS PLATOS DE GARBANZOS #2. RECETA
DE GARBANZOS SECOS, p 280
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Boiling Chickpeas Photo by: Lord-Williams |
Ingredients
1 c dried chickpeas
1 onion chopped
1 tsp white pepper corns
6 sprigs cilantro
1 tsp mashed saffron
1 tsp murri[2]
¼- ½ c vinegar
Preparation
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A Universal Dish for All - Jews, Christians and Muslims Photo by: Lord-Williams |
Bring it to a boil and simmer for ½ hr or longer depending on
the chickpeas. When tender strain and discard the water and spice bag. Put the
chickpeas back in the pot and add murri and vinegar. Mix well, cover and let sit covered
for 15 minutes.
Taste for vinegar. Dependig on the strength of the vinegar used and personal tastes the amount can be adjusted by adding more vinegar or water to delute it if too strong. Served in a bowl.
Taste for vinegar. Dependig on the strength of the vinegar used and personal tastes the amount can be adjusted by adding more vinegar or water to delute it if too strong. Served in a bowl.
Lime vinegar can be used instead of common vinegar and
onion.
[1]
See the three blogs titled
Cocido published between March 20,
2013 – March 25, 2013 for récipes.
[2]
See blog published August 25 2011 titled almorí for
recipe.
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