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Wednesday, May 6, 2015

HUEVO HILADO ADAPTED FROM GRANADOS' SPUN EGG YOLKS

Between the two fingers is a thread of syrup
Photo by: Lord-Williams
Port fios de ovos, Eng. spun egg yolks, candied egg yolk threads. This is a Byzantine invention possibly as early as 340 AD. It thought that it was known throughout the Mediterranean during the Middle Ages, although the recipe is not given in the books consulted for this entry. It is a composition of 2 doz. egg yolks and 1 lb. sugar boiled in 1 lt of water to make a sugar syrup. The egg yolks are heated for a couple of minutes in a double boiler. One egg white is added to the syrup to make it frothy. The mixture is then put through a hilador, a colander, with four tiny spouts in the bottom. When the mixture is pressed through them it looks like threads of egg yolks. It is used to garnish cold meats. [Cassell’s n/d:202; Delgado. 1985:126; and ES: Elliot. Nov 15, 05]

Removing the embryo from the yolk
Photo by: Lord-Willliams
SPUN EGG YOLKS ADAPTED FROM GRANADOS PARA COZER HIEMAS DE HUEVOS ESPARZIDAS EN AZUCAR[1], DIEGO DE GRANADO'S LIBRO DEL ARTE DE LA COCINA, p 275

Ingredients

1 lb sugar
2 doz eggs
1 egg white

Preparation

Mix water and sugar. Bring to a boil and boil for about 15 minutes until it becomes a syrup. When thick enough, the index finger and thumb are dipped unto the mixture, when pulling them out and separating them the substance expands like a tiny rubber band.

Separate the egg whites from the yolks. Save one egg white. Add this to the syrup to make it frothy.

Pouring the Strained Egg Yolk into the Syrup
Photo by: Lord-Williams
Pour egg yolks through a strainer until a double boiler. Heat egg yolks for a couple of minutes over moderate heat.

Pour egg yolks through a hilador, a colander with four small spigots or a syringe without a needle. Make circular motions non-stop with it over the boiling syrup. Let them sit 2 minutes.

Remove the yolks with a spatula and quickly put them in ice water to stop them from cooking any further. Remove them from the water and drain them over a rack to dry.[2]
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[1] It is fascinating that older recipes explain very little and in the case of Granados, rosewater is used instead of tap water, which must be very tasty. 

This looks like a very easy recipe but it is recommended to try it with one egg, separating the yolk and white, ½ c sugar and ½ c water for a starter as in the end it is very tricky but worth it.
[2] Serve with cold dishes, as decoration for a platter, filling for ham rolls, to top canapés, to decorate smoked salmon etc.
Quimet/Quimet (2009)
Photo from: encantadismo

LIBRO DEL ARTE DE COCINA
POR DIEGO GRANADO (1599)
Para cozer hiemas de hueuos esparzidas en açucar, p 275
Tomase açucar derretido en agua rosada, y póngase en vna cacuela, o plato de plat, y en aquel açucar echénse las hiemas de hueuos y háganse cozer con fuego arriba y abaxo, y siruase en el mesmo plato con canela, y agua rosada por encima[1].
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[1] It is interesting to note that Granada garnishes his dish with cinnamon and rosewater. This is not done today.



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