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Wednesday, July 15, 2015

JERRICOTE WITH LLANDONOSA'S RECIPE

Ingredients for Haricot
Photo by: Lord-Williams
merrítoche, nerrícoque, OCat arricoc, potaje de N’Erri Coc, nerricoque, potatge de Herricoch, ONav aricoc, aricoq, hericot, Eng fricas, haricot mutton. Originally it was “Harry Cock or Jerry Cook’s pottage,” named for the English king’s cook and inventor of this pottage. Now it is called Irish Stew. 

In Anón/Grewe, written at the end of the 14 C, the recipe is called arricoch. In one of Nola’s two recipes for haricot, it is called nerrícoque for when naming a man in Catalan the “N” (en) is used as a personal article as “the” in English, thus explaining nerri or “the Harry,” except when pronounced it sounds like “Herry.” The English “h” in the Spanish oral transcription can be represented by “j.” 

In the case of the “Cook”, the letter “k” in Castellan becomes “ch” or “qu”, producing the suffixes “che” or “que” or it became “ke” and then evolved to te and the oral transcription produces jerricote. The “m” instead of “n” in merrítoche appears to be a transcription error, see Nola’s recipe for haricot which is a repetition of Sent Sovi’s

[Anón/Grewe. 1982:CXXXII:161; Apè I:59:226:ftn 1; Corominas. Cast.. 1980:III:G:511; Lladonosa. 1984:88:156; Nola.1989:xxvii-4; Serrano. 2008:382]


HARICOT, THE MEDIEVAL SPANISH CHEF’S TRANSLATION OF JOSEF LLADONOSA’S ALMODROTE, LA COCINA MEDIEVAL, p 88-89

Ingredients

Haricot Mutton
Photo by: Lord Williams
5 garlic cloves
150 gr dry grated cheese
2 hard boiled egg yolks
1 c olive oil
½ c hot water (if necessary)
1 pinch Duke’s powder
salt to taste

Preparation

Haricot is an emulsified sauce similar to today’s allioli[1], with a different flavor; here I offer a more precise formula.

Mash garlic in a mortar and add egg yolks. Mash this and add cheese. Add olive oil one drop at a time. If the mixture tends to curdle, add a few drops at a time of very hot water.  Season with a little duke’s powder[2] and salt.

This sauce is used to accompany or to be included in a dish such as meat or fish as in the case of Haricot Pottage with pheasant. (It can be seasoned with spices at will or without them.)

Note: Llandonosa's recipe is a little heavy on the garlic. Delicate stomachs might consider reducing the number of clovees.


[1] See blog with this title published Aug 4, 11.
[2] See blog titled Cardamomo with 14th C Duke's Powder Recipe published Aug 16, 12.




LLLAALMODROTE
LA COCINA MEDIEVAL, p 88-89
De JOSEF LLADONOSA
Ingredientes (para 6 personas)   
 
Ajos crudos                 5 dientes  
Queso rallado seco     150 gr
Temas de huevo duro  2
Aceite                          1/4l
Agua caliente              ½ tacita
Pólvoaduque               un poso
sal  

Elaboración

     El almodrote es una sala emulsionada parecida al actual “all-l-oli,” pero con diferente sabor; ofrezco la fórmula que creo más correcta.
     Se machacan en el mortero los ajos, y se añaden las yemas de huevo, que también se trituran. Se va añadiendo el queso y el aceite gota a gota. Si la masa tiene tendencia de desligarse se agregan unas gotas de agua muy caliente. Se sazona con un poco de pólvoraduque.

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