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Wednesday, May 31, 2017

PICOR WITH PEASANT'S DISH OF LAMB


Vinegar for Sharpness
Photo by: Lord-Williams
agudeza, OCast agudez, Eng. sharpness. [Germán. 1994:195; and Villena/Calero. 2002:41b]

A PEASANT'S DISH OF LAMB ADAPTED FROM HUICI'S TRANSLATION OF ANÓN AL-ANDALUS, #332 HECHURA DE LA CAMPESINA COMPLETA, p 185

Ingredients

2 lbs lamb
2 eggplants
½ tsp Pepper
2 tbsp cilantro
1 tbsp lanvender
1 tbsp murri
1 tsp cumin
2 tsp cinnamon
½ c almonds
2 slices of day old bread
1 tsp saffron mashed
¼ c vinegar 
2 garlic cloves
¼ c chopped almonds
6 egg yolks
oil for frying and covering
1 hard boiled egg

Preparation

Grind half the lamb. Slice the eggplants in half. Rub with coarse salt and turn out on a towel to let them bleed for about 20 minutes. Boil one eggplant. Remove from heat and cool. Remove skin. Squeeze out excess water and mash. Mix this with the ground lamb. Add half the spices such as pepper, cilantro, lavender, murri, cumin, cinnamon and chopped almonds. Make meatballs[1].

Worth the Effort!
Photo by: Lord-Williams
Chop the other eggplant and fry in oil. Take the other half of the lamb and chop. Mix it with the other half of the spices: pepper, cilantro, saffron, cinnamon, cumin, lavender, vinegar (to make it sharp) and a garlic clove mashed. Fry this in oil, until it is nearly ready. Remove half the meat. Then add the chopped eggplant and layer this with half meatball/eggplant mixture. Top this with the rest of the meat and the rest of the meatballs.

Sprinkle with the ¼ c chopped almonds, egg yolks and cover with a thin layer oil; put in the oven and leave until dried and browned on top. Before serving, sprinkle with with a mashed hard boiled egg.


[1] If too soft roll in flour and refrigerate the night before finishing the dish.

HUICI'S TRANSLATION OF ANÓN AL-ANDALUS, 
#332 HECHURA DE LA CAMPESINA COMPLETA, p 185


Monday, May 29, 2017

PICADA WITH A SAVORY RECIPE FOR CHICKEN IN ALMOND SAUCE FROM THE 14TH CENTURY


Pounding a "Picada"
Photo by: Lord-Williams
(fr. picar, to crush), sauce, paté or blend pounded in a mortar obtained from mashing various ingredients such as garlic, almonds, hazelnuts, walnuts, herbs and spices, crackers, breadcrumbs and/or livers from different animals, olive oil or other liquid to thicken a dish. Sent Soví explains that this is a basic element in Catalan cooking. This is added five to ten minutes before the end of cooking to thicken dishes and to provide more flavor.

Food processors are not used as they grind foods. Ingredients for Picadas must be crushed together using a mortar and pestle.

Both Sent Soví and Nola provide numerous recipes calling for a picada. Some of these, previously published in the Medieval Spanish Chef blog are found in the following blogs with recipes from Sent Soví or Nola:

Blog title: Melva, with Sent Soví recipe CIIII – Fried Fish in Escabeche, published June 1, 2016.
Blog title: Frejurate with Sent Soví recipe CXXVI  - Noumble Pottage, published August 27, 2014
Blog title: Bullabesa with Sent Soví recipe CXXXXVI - Sautéing White Lobster or Cuttlefish or Calamari, published May 14, 2012.
Blog title: Asador with Nola recipe xxxix-1 - Dobladura de Ternera, published May 14, 2012
Blog title: Champiñones with Nola recipe lii-3 - Trufa en Salsa published  December 3, 2013.
Blog title: Pedaso with Nola recipe lxvi-2 - Squid And Cuttlefish Pottage 
published February 6, 2017.

[Anón. Sent Soví. 1979: CIIII:133-134; CXXVI:141:CXXXXVI:156-157 etc; Lladonosa. 1984:132:136:159 etc; and Nola. 1989: xxxix-1: lii-3: lxvi-2 etc]  

ANOTHER MIRRAUSTE, HALF ROASTED CHICKEN IN ALMOND SAUCE 
ADAPTED FROM ANÓN SENT SOVÍ 
#LV QUI PARLA EN ALTRA MANERA CON SE FFA MIG-RAUST. Pp 99-100[1]

Ingredients

Absolutely Delicious
Photo by: Lord-Williams
1 chicken (about 3 lb)
1 tbsp olive oil
1 chicken liver
½ c ground almonds
1 c chicken broth
½ tsp ginger
¼ tsp cinnamon
freshly ground pepper
¼ c sugar
1 tbsp verjuice

Preparation

Joint the chicken in the usual way and cook in oil over low heat for about 20 minutes turning from time to time, or until the chicken is almost cooked but not browned. Transfer to a clean pan or casserole. Meanwhile gently cook the liver in the same oil turning to cook all sides, until cooked through.

In a food processor blend together almonds, chicken broth, liver, spices, sugar and verjuice. Strain this sauce over chicken, pushing down on the residue on the sieve to extract a much as possible. Simmer over gentle heat for 15-20 minutes stirring and turning the chicken pieces occasionally. The sauce should reduce somewhat and thicken.

Check seasoning before serving. t may be necessary to add a little salt or to correct the sweet/sour balance by adding sugar or verjuice.


[1] See blog titled churrasco published January 14, 2012 for a different version of this recipe.

ANÓN SENT SOVÍ # LV QUI PARLA EN ALTRA MANERA CON SE FFA MIG-RAUST pp 99-100






PICADO, PRUEBA WITH RECIPES FOR CHORIZO AND BLOOD SAUSAGE

Fried  blood sausage stuffing and choriera
Photo by: Lord-Williams
Eng a sample of  choriera (chorizo stuffing) or morcillera (blood sausage stuffing). Also, it is called (de) matanza (of the slaughter). It is fried and tasted for possible seasoning changes before stuffing the intestinal skins. [Serradilla. 1993:100: 146:147]

CHORIZO, THE MEDIEVAL SPANISH CHEF'S RECIPE
For 4 servings      

Ingredients
  
1 lb pork butt ground       
1 tsp coarse sea salt       
1 tsp white pepper 
1 tsp macerated murri[1]        
¼ c white wine[2]
2 garlic cloves mashed     
1 tsp nutmeg       
1 tbsp chopped cilantro       
1 tsp cinnamon 
1 tsp dried lavender mashed
1 tbsp flour      
washed sausage casings
string for tying 
¼ c virgin olive oil   

HONEY BLOOD SAUSAGE, THE MEDIEVAL MANUEL QUITIAN'S  CONCOCTION

Ingredients

Tying Sausage Links
Photo from: Lord-Williams
2 tbsp almonds
1 tbsp olive oil, plus oil for frying bread
2 blood sausages (optional)
1 tbsp pine kernels
½ tsp cloves
½ tsp cinnamon
2 egg yolks
3 tbsps honey
1 tbsp suet
8 thin slices of bread

Preparation

Boil almonds in water. Remove from heat and peel. Chop coarsely and set aside.

Heat olive oil in a frying pan. Remove sausage meat from casing and sautée. Add spices and nuts.  When toasted mix with egg yolks and add honey. Taste for sweetness. Add more honey if desired. Add suet and mix well.

Store refrigerated until ready to eat.

Thinly slice small pieces of bread and toast them.

At the same time warm the blood sausage mixture in a frying pan or microwave. When warm spread on bread and serve warm as hors d'oervres or dessert.

Boil almonds in water. Remove from heat and peel. Chop coarsely and set aside.

Black Blood Sausage and White Sausage
Ready to be topped and devoured
So yummy!!!
Photo by: Lord-Williams
Heat olive oil in a frying pan. Remove sausage meat from casing and sautée. Add spices and nuts.  When toasted mix with egg yolks and add honey. Taste for sweetness. Add more honey if desired. Add suet and mix well.

Store refrigerated until ready to eat.

Thinly slice small pieces of bread and toast them.

At the same time warm the blood sausage mixture in a frying pan or microwave. When warm spread on bread and serve warm as hors d'oervres or dessert.
_____________________________________
[1] See blog titled Almorí macerado published on August 29, 2012 for recipe.

[2] Paprika and cayenne pepper are not included as they are New World products. Wine is used instead.


Friday, May 26, 2017

PEZ VOLADOR WITH A FISH THAT SOLD WELL

Flying Fish
Photo from: Mike Peacock
L. Cheilopogon heterurus, Eng. gray flying fish. The dorsal is iridescent blue and the flanks and stomach are silver. It can grow to be 34 cm. long. Wing–like pectoral wings enable it to glide through the air. It moves 70 times per second and the fish can fly for 30 seconds or more.

Avenzoar claimed that this is because they are the lightest of all fish, they were commonly consumed in medieval Spain.

[Castro. Alimentación. 1996:325; and Corbera. 1998:109; and ES: Ibn Zuhr/García Sánchez. 1992:68]

 A FISH THAT SOLD WELL ADAPTED FROM HUICI’S TRANSLATION OF ANÓN AL-ANDALUS #361 EL  PESCADO MURAWAŶ[1], p 198

Ingredients

A Delicious Variation
Photo by: Lord-Willliams
1 fish
salt to taste
oil for frying
1 tbsp vinegar
1 tbsp murri
¼  tsp white pepper
½  tsp cumin
1 garlic clove
1 tsp fresh thyme
½ tsp cinnamon

Preparation

Scale fish. Cut into junks. Lightly boil in salted water. Remove from water. Remove skin and let dry.

Pour enough oil in a pot to cover fish. Bring to a boil. Add fish and brown. Remove and set aside.

Pour 1 tbsp left over oil into another frying pan. Add remaining ingredients. Bring to a boil. Add fish and fry until the oil is absorbed.

Thus the people of Ceuta and of western al-Andalus used to do.


[1] Huici's note: which is sold well.

 HUICI’S TRANSLATION OF ANÓN AL-ANDALUS 
#361 EL PESCADO MURAWAŶ, p 198


Wednesday, May 24, 2017

PEZ MULAR


Syngnathus abaster
Photo from: Sergio Coppola
L. Syngnathus abaster, Eng. great pipefish found throughout the Atlantic Ocean from the coasts of Norway to Morocco and the Canary Islands and it is common also in the Mediterranean. Villena advises to cut it into pieces as it is a large fish with tough meat. [Corbera. 1998:121; and Villena/Calero. 2002:23a:37b]

A DISH OF LARGE FISH SIMPLIFIED AND ADAPTED FROM HUICI’S TRANSLATION OF ANÓN, AL ANDALUS #78 PLATO DE PESCADO GRANDE, pp 55-56

Ingredients

1 lb large fish

For the meatballs[1]

1 tbsp oil
¼ tsp pepper
½ tsp cinnamon or 1 tsp lavender
1 tbsp onion juice
salt to taste
1 egg
1  c flour
Junks of Pikefish with Meatballs
Photo by: Lord-Williams

Sauce:

8 eggs
1 tbsp strong vinegar
1 tsp murri made with bread[2]
1 tbsp oil
1 whole onion
1 garlic head peeled
1 stick of fennel
1 citron leaf
¾ tsp pepper
1 tsp cinnamon
1 tsp cilantro
½ tsp cumin
½ tsp caraway
water to moisten
salt to taste
½  c breadcrumbs
½  c flour

Garnish

Spices

The Finished Dish
(with broken egg yolks!)
Photo by: Lord-Williams
Preparation

Rub a casserole with oil. Clean, debone and skin a large fish. Cut it into pieces and place all, except one piece, in the casserole.  

Make meatballs with the piece set aside by shredding it and mixing with ingredients as per above, except ½ flour. After making meatballs roll them in the flour set aside and add them to the dish.

For the sauce remove four egg yolks from whites and set aside. Put the four whole eggs and 4 egg whites in a food processor with the remaining ingredients. Mix well. Pour this sauce over the fish and meatballs. 

PREHEAT OVEN TO 200ºC/400ºF

Put the pot in the oven and bake.

When almost done, decorate the dish with the remaining yolks. When set, remove from heat, sprinkle with spices and serve if it be God’s will.


[1]As per Anón, Al-Andalus recipe #140 RECETA DE LAS ALBÓNDIGAS USADAS EN ALGUNOS PLATOS (RECIPE FOR MEATBALLS USED IN SOME DISHES), p 94-95
[2] 1 fish bouillon cube was used instead.


HUICI’S TRANSLATION OF ANÓN, AL ANDALUS #78 
PLATO DE PESCADO GRANDE, pp 55-56





Monday, May 22, 2017

PEZ WITH 14TH CENTURY INSTRUCTIONS FOR FRYING BREADED FISH

Tasty Simplicity
Photo by: Lord-Williams
OCast pes, peçe (dead or alive), Eng live fish. It is interesting to note that the Anón, Sent Soví’s recipes for “pez”  or “pex” when when they should be for “pescado” as the fish is dead when prepared and consumed. See pescado. [Anón. Sent Soví. 1982:CLXXXXI:199:clxxxxiiii:200-201:ccii:205-206:CCIII:207 etc.; Gázquez. Cocina. 2002:234: Sas 1976:468:481]

IN REFERENCE AS TO PREPARING SMALL FISH PRIOR TO FRYING ADAPTED FROM ANÓN, SENT SOVÍ #CLXXXXI QUI PARLA DE PEX MANT, ANS QUE·L FFRIGES, CON SA DEU FFER. p.199

1 lb small fish
1 c flour
salt to taste
olive oil for frying

Preparation

Before frying a small fish, cut off gills and cover them with flour mixed with salt to taste.

Head olive oil and fry until done.

ANÓN, SENT SOVÍ #CLXXXXI QUI PARLA DE PEX MANT, ANS QUE·L FFRIGES, CON SA DEU FFER. p.199




Friday, May 19, 2017

PESTIÑOS WITH RECIPE FOR MUNDEJAR TREACLES

Letting Dough Cooling
Photo by: Lord-Williams
Ar. zalābiyya, zalābiya zulâ-biyya, zulābiyya Eng. fried treacles with honey. It is a special desert made in Ramandan for Muslims, during Christmas in Andalusia and Shrovetide in León.

There are various recipes for them. Basically they consist of dough made with flour, with or without yeast, to which water is gradually added to reach the consistence required for churros. The dough is left to ferment and become lighter. Prior to frying cinnamon and other spices are added as desired. The dough is poured through a furrowed funnel, allowing the thickness of a finger and winding it in the shape of rings, into a frying pan. When golden-brown it is removed and the oil is drained off. It is served after sprinkling with sugar and or cinnamon or drizzling clarified honey and fennel juice.


Frying Treacles
Photo by: Lord-Williams
Those described in the Anón Al-Andalus are aromatic ring shaped pastries, which also could be called churros or bizcocho. In Al-Andalus they could include almonds and were sold drowned in honey at Muslim markets.

In the middle of the 14th C, in the Nazari kingdom (in Granada), it appears that it was a customary item in the home. It was used in medicine to ‘soften’ the respiratory tract, digestion and urinary ducts.

[Anón/Huici.1966:447:245-246; 477:260-261; Benavides-Barajas. Alhambra.1999:96; Benavides-Barajas. Nueva-Clásica. 1995:287; Bolens. 1990:33; Castro. Alimentación. 1996:245; ES: Anon/Perry. Sep 5 02; ES: Medieval Spanish Chef. “Churros,” Jan 1, ’14 and “Bizcocho,” Mar 15, ‘12]

MUNDEJAR TREACLES FROM BENAVIDES-BARAJAS NUEVA-CLASICA RECIPE PESTIÑOS MUNDEJARES, p 287

Yummy Soaked in Honey and
Sprinkled with Cinnamon
Photo by: Lord-Williams
Ingredients

½  c oil 
2 tbsp anise liquor
1 ½ c white wine or must (fermented grape juice)  
2 c flour 
oil for frying
½ c honey
1 tsp cinnamon

Preparation

Heat the oil with the anise and wine. Mix this with the flour in a bowl and knead well. Let cool. Roll out to make the dough thin. Cut it to make oval figures. Fry in very hot oil. When golden brown remove from the frying pan and dip each figure in boiling honey which has been mixed with an equal amount of water. Remove immediately and sprinkle with cinnamon and eat immediately.